Class 
Book_ 



HANDBOOKS OF PRACTICAL GARDENING 
EDITED BY HARRY ROBERTS 



THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 
AND WALL SHRUBS 




WISTARIA CHINENSIS 



THE BOOK OF 
CLIMBING PLANTS 
AND WALL SHRUBS 



S. ARNOTT, F.R.H.S. 

t I 

AUTHOR OF " THE BOOK OF BULBS " 




JOHN LANE: THE BOD LEY HEAD 
LONDON AND NEW YORK. MCMIII 



3 f 4- 3 o 
'OZ, 



...... c < 

C * r C 



Printed by Turnbull or Spears, Edi?tburgh 



PAGE 

xiii 
i 



Soil, Planting, After-Management and Propagation . 8 

Errors in Planting — Preparing Station — Soil — Manures — 
Planting — Feeding — Shade — Pruning and Training — 
Supports — Enemies and Remedies — Under Glass — Pro- 
pagation. 

Annual Climbing Plants . . . . .21 

Value and Uses — Perennials treated as Annuals — Hardy 
Annuals — Preparation of Soil — Sowing Seeds — Thinning 
out — Tropaeolums — Sweet Peas — Ipomoeas — Maurandya 
— Amphicarpasa — Echinocystis — Half-hardy Annuals — 
Sowing — Ipomoeas — Eccremocarpus — Gourds — Cobsa — 
Thunbergia — Mina — PassifTora — Japanese — Hop — 
Adlumia — Grammatocarpus — Dolichos — Tender Annuals 
— Ipomoea — Citrullus — Porana — Sowing. 

Hardy Deciduous and Herbaceous Cllmbers . . .28 

The Vitis — Ampelopsis — Wistarias — Loniceras — Apios — 
Rubuses — Jasminums — Aristolochia — Hydrangea — 
Schizophragma — Muehlenbeckia — Lyciums — Periploca — 
Polygonum — Lathyrus — Calystegias — Convolvulus — 
Cynananchum — Actinidias — Decumaria — Celastrus — 
Hablitzia — Humulus — Ipomoea — Cucumis — Megarrhiza 
— Menispermum — Mutisias — Tropasolums. 



CONTENTS 



Editor's Note . . . . - 

^ Introductory . . . 

The Value and Beauty of Climbers — Cheapness of Some — 
Nature and Habits — Plants Included — Nomenclature. 



Vlll 



CONTENTS 



Hardy Evergreen Climbers . . . 

Importance — Uses — Ivy — Jasminum — Berberidopsis — 
Passifloras — Clianthus — Ercilla or Bridgesia — Smilax — 
Bignonia — Tecomas — Araujias — Cocculus — Holboeliia — 
Stauntonia — Lardizabala — Mitraria — Vitis striata — 
Billardiera. 

Hardy Wall Shrubs . . . . » . 

Ceanothuses — Forsythias — Escallonias — Magnolias — 
Kerrias — Corokias — Elaeagnuses — Cytisuses — Fabiana — 
Colletia — Abelias — Asimina — Azara — Berberises — 
Drimys — Baddleia — Cardiandra — Carpenteria — Caryop- 
teris — Chimonanthus — Choisya — Cistuses — Cleroden- 
drons — Cornuses — Corylopsis. 

Hardy Wall Shrubs (continued) ..... 

Cotoneaster — Embothrium — Eucryphias — Euonymus — 
Fuchsias — Fremontia — Garrya — Gordonia — lndigofera 
Lespedeza — Lippia — Myrtles — Olearias — Philadelphuses 
Plagianthus — Ozothamnus — Primuses — Punica — Cydonia 
or Pyrus — -Raphiolepis — Ribes — Rosemary — Solanums — 
Stuartias — Vitex — Viburnums — Vinea — Aristotelia — 
Desfontainea — Enkianthus — Phillyrea — Photinia. 

Climbers under Glass ...... 

Cultural Hints — Abutilons — Allamandas — Bignonias — 
Bougainvilleas — Clerodendrons — Lapagerias — Ipomoeas 
— Batatus — Convolvulus — Passifloras — Tacsonias - — 
Thunbergias — Stephanotis — Tecomas — Aganosmas — 
Akebia — Bomareas — Alstrcemeria — Aristolochias — 
Amphilophiums — Antigonons — Gloriosas — Asparaguses 
Canavalias — Dolichos — Milletia — Oxypetalum — Petrea — 
Hidalgoa Wercklei. 



CONTENTS 



IX 



Climbers under Glass (continued) .... 

Beaumontia — Cestrums — Kennedyas — Zichy as — Brachy- 
semas — Hoyas — Physostelma — Plumbago — Senecio — 
Pleroma or Lasiandra — Adelobotrys — Solanums — Solan- 
dras — Bauhinias — Clitorias — Clianthus — Daturas — or 
Brugmansias — Hibbertias — Dipladenias — Cissus — Vitis 
— Acacias — Mimosa — Semele — Grevilleas — Echites — 
Hardenbergias — Ceropegias — Pergularia — Rhodochiton 
— Mandevilla — Myrsiphyllum — Littonia — Swainsonias 
— Testudinaria — Tropseolums — Adhatodas — Argyreias 
— Chorizemas — Combretum — Quisqualis — Fuchsias — 
Pelargoniums — Ficus — Jasminums — Gompholobiums — 
Hoveas — Lophospermums — Luculia — Manettias — Solly as 
— Trachelospermum — Maurandya — Berberidopsis — 
Cobsea — Holboellia — Rubus — Araujia — Asystasia — 
Billardieras — Cryptostegias — Randia — Piper — Smilax. 

The Rose as a Climber . . . . . .88 

Its Beauty and Uses — The Species and Old Roses — The 
Modern Roses — Single Roses — Soil — Pests — Pruning — 
Under Glass. 

The Clematis as a Cllmbek. . . • . . ,94 

Its Beauty — The Species — Prolonged Period of Bloom — 
Disease — Shading Stems — Preparation of Soil — Training 
and Pruning — Propagation — Under Glass. 

Selections of Climbing Plants and Wall Shrubs . . 102 

Annual Climbers — HardyDeciduous and Herbaceous Climbers 
— Hardy Evergreen Climbers — Hardy Wall Shrubs — 
Climbers for Growing under Glass — Roses — Clematises. 



PAGE 

75 



Index 



121 



i 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 






PAGE 


Wistaria chinensis (from a drawing by Ethel Roskruge) 


Frontispiece 


Clematis, Fairy Queen ..... 


/ 


ECCREMOCARPUS SCABER ..... 


44 / 


Passion Flower ...... 


. 64/ 


VlTIS GONGYLOIDES ..... 




Wild Clematis ...... 


99 



xi 



EDITOR'S NOTE 



Like many another distinguished gardener, Mr Arnott 
is a Scotsman, being a. native of Dumfries, and now 
living in the adjoining county of Kirkcudbright. For 
the last fourteen years his name has been a familiar one 
to readers of the leading journals devoted to gardening, 
for he has been a very frequent contributor to The 
Gardener s Chronicle, The Gardener's Magazine, The Garden, 
The Journal of Horticulture, and other papers. Although 
not a professional gardener, Mr Arnott is a practical 
one, for he manages at least the flower department of 
his beautiful garden almost without assistance ; and 
having spent most of his life amongst flowers — his 
mother being a great gardener — he is a successful 
plant grower, as well as an interested one. 

Mr Arnott takes an active part in the work of en- 
couraging the gardening spirit among his countrymen, 
and is a member of the Scientific Committee of the 
Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society, as well as a 
member of other leading associations with similar aims. 

He is the author of " The Book of Bulbs," which forms 
the fifth volume in the present series of handbooks. 



xiii 



THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



CHAPTER I 

INTRODUCTORY 

The Value and Beauty of Climbers — Cheapness of Some — Nature and 
Habits — Plants Included — Nomenclature. 

Apart altogether from the interest which attaches to 
their habit of growth and the processes and contrivances 
by which they attach themselves to their supports, 
climbing plants are entitled from their charms to the 
appreciation of all who admire the beauty of plants in 
their varied forms. Even our native climbers contribute 
largely to the charms of our landscapes by the manner 
in which they clamber over trees, hedgerows and rocks, 
and none of us can see unmoved by admiration the wild 
Roses which climb among our hedgerows, the fragrant 
Honeysuckle which adornsmany a scene, or the Traveller's 
Joy covering as with a cloud of foliage and flowers some 
quiet or unfrequented spot. Nor can we be unapprecia- 
tive of the part played by the Ivy in the adornment of 
our ancient buildings, which owe much of their attraction 
in many cases to the veil of green which covers up their 
architectural or structural defects, and makes them assume 
perfect beauty in our eyes. In their own way these 
supply to our landscape the effects of the climbing plants 
of the tropics, though, as befits our greyer atmosphere 
and quieter landscapes, they are, it may be, less brilliant 
in their colouring than the showy flowers which cover 

a 1 



2 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



the bushes or clamber up the trees of brighter lands. 
These tropical plants are with us the inmates of our 
greenhouses and stoves, and it is under glass that we 
can see their beauties and enjoy their delights. From 
more temperate climes, however, we can draw the 
climbing plants which will decorate our gardens and our 
walls, and which are as hardy, or nearly so, as our 
native plants which we can see in the woods and lanes 
of the country side. 

It seems unnecessary to speak at length of the value 
of the climbing plants in our gardens and pleasure 
grounds. They are equally ornamental on the walls and 
terraces of the stately mansion, and on the humblest 
cottage, over whose low roof a mantle of Rose or 
Clematis sheds such a transforming cloud of beauty. 
They grace the garden walls, and take from stiff 
and hard lines their ugliness by fresh foliage, pretty 
flowers, and often pleasing fruit. The trellis may 
be draped with them. Over the garden paths they 
may depend from the archways, or the pergola may be 
their resting-place with its cloistered aisles overhung 
and shaded from the strong sunshine by their green 
leaves, which often look so lovely between one and 
the light, and decked by the blooms dangling from 
pliant stems or in clouds up the pillars. Then the 
arbour is both shaded and beautified by these plants, 
and they may be more widely used than they have been 
to give variety to the wilder parts of the grounds. A 
glen or a stream side may have its beauties heightened 
by planting alongside the native shrubs and trees some 
of the exotic climbers, which give grace and brightness 
and form a charming feature. 

Then, too, what is a greenhouse, a stove, or a con- 
servatory without a climber about it, to cover its walls, 
hang from the rafters or roof, or cover its bare pillars ? 
It is a poor greenhouse indeed, which has not room for 



INTRODUCTORY 



3 



at least one of these plants, even if it is impossible to 
use the Grape Vine with its beautiful leaves and its 
succeeding luscious fruit. In the pages which follow 
there is named a wealth of choice climbing plants for all 
such buildings ; some are slender and graceful, while 
others produce huge, ornamental leaves and flowers 
more suitable for the great winter garden or conservatory 
than for the modest greenhouse of the amateur, who 
can draw from among the smaller-flowered or weaker- 
growing genera something to suit his purpose. 

Nor is it necessary in growing climbing plants either 
in the open or under glass, to expend much money in 
securing their beautiful effects. How much may be 
done with a packet of common " Nasturtiums " as we 
familiarly call the varieties of Tropaeolum majus ! How 
much will eventually be covered by a plant of a pretty 
Ivy, costing only a few pence, or a graceful Clematis, 
which can be had for eighteenpence or less ! The 
wealthy amateur who can afford to expend a large sum 
ought to purchase a large number of the choicest climbers 
and wall shrubs, but none who have gardens need be or 
ought to be without as many as possible of these 
valuable plants, whose worth for decorative purposes 
can hardly be overpraised. 

The study of the nature and habits of climbers is a 
most interesting one, upon which a vast amount of light 
has been thrown by the researches and experiments of 
Charles Darwin, De Vries, and others. Naturally, in a 
work of this size, it is impossible to enter into such 
questions in detail, and those who wish to study the 
subject will do well to peruse carefully such works as 
Darwin's " Movements and Habits of Climbing Plants " 
(London, John Murray), where they will find much to 
interest and also much which will help them in cultivating 
these plants. 

The development of the climbing habit appears to be 



4 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



due to the pressure of circumstances and the desire of 
nature to economise. The climber has generally to find 
its way to the light and air by aid of the support of other 
plants or surrounding objects of greater height, and had 
it not its lengthened stem and its climbing powers it 
would be strangled or destroyed by want of light and 
by being unable to absorb the carbon dioxide it requires. 
The elongation of the stem without additional thickness 
would have been insufficient from its want of power to 
sustain itself erect, and thus the powers of twining 
round or clinging to something which would support it 
were developed to aid in the struggle for existence. 
These powers are provided in the shape of a twining 
habit, tendrils, aerial roots, prickles, or hooks. Some 
writers are disposed to separate twiners from other 
plants with a climbing habit, but for gardening purposes 
they ought to be dealt with together. The contriv- 
ances by which these plants attain to the light and 
support their stems are varied in their character, and, 
though they might be divided broadly into a few classes, 
yet there will in a few cases be found some which 
possess a share of two or more means of climbing or 
supporting themselves and cannot therefore be classed 
with only one section. Yet they may generally be 
divided into twiners, tendril-bearers and leaf-twisters, 
aerial rooters, and those which support themselves by 
prickles or hooks or by simply scrambling among other 
and stiffer plants to reach the light. The Convolvulus 
is a familiar example of the twiner, while the tendril- 
bearing class may be represented by the Vine or the 
Pea. The Ivy is a good representative of the aerial- 
rooters, and in the Blackberry and the climbing Rose we 
have representatives of the plants which support them- 
selves by means of their prickles. Darwin looks upon 
the tendril bearers as more highly developed than the 
simple twiners, and it is interesting to observe in these 



INTRODUCTORY 



5 



the way in which the spiral form assumed by the tendril 
makes, as it were, a spring by which the strain is 
relieved when the climber or its host is exposed to gales 
which might tear them apart. 

Even more fascinating is the study of the movements 
of the climbers in search of support. Some of the 
twiners revolve with, and some against the sun ; some 
seek the light, and others shun it, so as to cling to 
something in the shade. Yet almost all have a 
revolving motion when in search of something to lay 
hold of. They sweep with regular motion the limited 
space they can reach and are thus afforded opportunities 
of reaching a support they could not have touched were 
they devoid of this power. Darwin has given much 
information on these points, and all growers of climbing 
plants would derive pleasure and profit were they to 
study his work carefully. From a purely gardening 
point of view one conclusion of the eminent scientist 
deserves attention. That was that some climbers upon 
which he experimented required to be well cultivated 
and placed under favourable conditions of all kinds in 
order to attain the full development of their climbing 
powers. This is an observation of some importance, 
showing as it does, that much of the non-success of 
some climbing plants in gardens is due to want of 
satisfactory conditions in the way of soil exposure, or 
of a suitable medium to which to attach themselves. 

In this connection it must also be observed that some 
people err in thinking that all climbers will grow 
against similar objects, while Darwin's experiments 
prove that even different species of the same genus 
required supports of different thickness to meet their 
wants. 

Besides the true climbers, twiners, and scandent plants 
which are cultivated in gardens as "climbing plants," 
popular usage has frequently classed with them in con- 



6 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



versation a number of plants which are devoid of any 
climbing propensities, but which are largely used for 
covering walls and other objects to which they can be 
attached by nails or other means of support. It has 
been thought advisable to include these plants, so as 
to make this volume as useful as possible. 

On the other hand, some dwarf twining plants of 
little use for climbing and only serviceable in the 
garden for furnishing hanging baskets and such purposes, 
have been omitted. 

In the preparation of this volume it has been my 
desire to include not only the climbing plants and 
wall shrubs commonly met with in private gardens, 
which almost everyone knows, but also a few which 
are rarely to be seen except in botanic gardens. Their 
presence in a garden would help to render it more 
interesting alike to its owner and his friends, and many of 
these plants, from their intrinsic beauty, are of the highest 
worth. Of course, a great number have been omitted 
which would have been included but for the necessity 
of keeping this work within moderate bounds. With 
the same object in view a large selection of climbers has 
been given in tabular form at the end of the volume, 
with information regarding their colour, the temperature 
they require, and the time at which they bloom. In 
some cases these are not mentioned in the chapters 
containing the general remarks for the corresponding 
classes, and in these instances it is to be understood 
that they are amenable to the ordinary treatment re- 
commended in the chapter on soil, etc. 

The cultural directions, though necessarily brief, will 
supply as much information as is absolutely necessary 
for those possessed of a little knowledge of the 
principles and practice of plant cultivation. These will 
understand the necessity of varying the treatment under 
diverse circumstances. 



INTRODUCTORY 



7 



The nomenclature is generally that of the Index 
Kewensis and the Kew Hand-lists, though these have 
not been always followed in some cases where the 
garden names are too firmly fixed to be readily 
superseded. 



CHAPTER II 



SOIL, PLANTING, AFTER-MANAGEMENT AND PROPAGATION 

Errors in Planting— Preparing Station — Soil — Manures — Planting — 
Feeding — Shade — Pruning and Training — Supports — Enemies and 
Remedies — Under Glass — Propagation. 

It is much to be regretted that, as a rule, the require- 
ments of climbing plants are but imperfectly considered 
in gardens. 

They are often planted, with the most meagre pre- 
paration, in poor soil, either composed largely of the 
rubbish filled in after the building of the house, or 
that which has been impoverished by other plants. In 
either case it is hopeless to expect the free and 
luxuriant growth which constitutes one of the beauties 
of such plants. On the contrary, they are often 
stunted and unhealthy in appearance from neglect in 
these and other ways. Nothing is more common than 
to see them turned out of small pots into a hole little 
larger than the pots they have occupied, and without 
any preparation having been made for the extension 
necessary for the roots if the climber is ever to become 
healthy, vigorous and beautiful. Even where a little 
attempt is made to secure this it is often absurdly in- 
adequate, and the roots are checked by the mass of 
hard, poor soil with which they eventually come in 
contact. It is better to make too much preparation 
than too little, and when planting climbers in the open 
to make a large and deep hole from three to six feet 
across and about three feet deep, filling it up with good 

8 



SOIL, PLANTING 



9 



loam, with the addition of some manure, some of which 
ought to be well worked into the subsoil. 

There is nothing better than a good sound loam for 
the growth of the greater number of climbing plants, 
and unless advised otherwise, this, with the addition of 
manure, should form the basis of the compost. As a 
general rule, there is no fertiliser which equals thoroughly 
rotted animal manure, that from the cow-house being 
the best for light, dry soils, and that from the stable the 
most beneficial for those of a heavy nature. In stiff 
soils some leaf-mould and peat are often beneficial. 
Artificial manures may be used, where the others are 
not available, in the proportions recommended on the 
packages of those of a proprietary nature, which are 
generally the safest to be used by amateurs, A con- 
siderable proportion of bone meal is also desirable and 
supplies the permanent nourishment wanting in some of 
the artificials. 

If the climbers have been growing in pots they may 
be planted out at almost any season, but others may be 
planted either in autumn or spring, the former being 
the best season for districts where drying winds prevail 
at the latter season. In case of severe frosts they should 
be slightly protected for the first winter. 

In planting, those which have been grown in pots 
ought to be turned out carefully with the ball of soil 
intact, except that the roots may be spread out, so far 
as this can be done without removing all the soil from 
the ball. The others should have the roots carefully 
spread out at their full length and not crushed or 
crowded in any manner. Any injured roots ought to 
be carefully cut with a sharp knife, removing the bruised 
portions. After planting, the soil, which should not be 
too wet, must be firmly trodden or pressed down and 
the climbers properly fixed to their supports. Tedious 
as these directions may seem, their fulfilment will be 



io THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



found to repay the planter in the greater rapidity with 
which the plants will become established and the quick 
manner in which they will cover their allotted space, 
compared with those planted with insufficient preparation. 

Sometimes it is necessary to plant climbers in positions 
where the soil is already so permeated with the roots of 
trees or shrubs that a newly-established plant has little 
chance of obtaining the nourishment it requires. It is, 
in such cases, advantageous to sink a bottomless cask in 
the soil and fill it with a suitable compost so as to give 
the climber time to establish itself and strength to 
compete with the other roots. 

While the proper preparation of the site for a climber 
is of the highest importance, it is also needful to give it 
regular supplies of nourishment when it begins to 
exhaust the provision made at planting. Too often 
this is forgotten, and the once free and vigorous plant 
shows signs of failure and decrepitude. Mulching with 
decayed manure and top-dressing with fresh soil and 
artificial fertilisers are beneficial, and, where it can be 
applied without being offensive, liquid manure will often 
work wonders in restoring health and vigour. In many 
positions, such as under the eaves of a dwelling-house 
or against warm walls, climbers frequently suffer much 
from drought, and they ought to be well watered in dry 
weather, giving plentiful soakings and not mere super- 
ficial waterings on the surface. Where this is necessary, 
the need for a stimulant in the way of liquid manure 
or a top-dressing of a good artificial manure is all the 
greater, as the frequent waterings tend to exhaust the 
soil by washing the manures into the sub-soil. 

While, as a rule, those who plant climbers desire an 
immediate effect and should therefore attach them to 
their supports at once, it has been found that a few 
climbing plants, such as the Wistaria, grow eventually 
with more rapidity if they have been laid along the 



SOIL, PLANTING 



ground for the first season. This point is worthy of 
more consideration than it has received. Another recent 
discovery is that a certain number of climbing plants, of 
which the Clematis may be cited as an example, require 
to have the lower part of the stems shaded from the 
direct effects of the sun, especially when newly planted 
and when the flow of sap is consequently less plentiful. 
This shading can be easily afforded by planting some 
low shrub or herbaceous plant in front. 

In some positions, such as rambling over a tree or 
among other things in the wild garden, climbing plants 
are best left unpruned and with but little interference. 
Yet it is seldom that this can be done without lowering 
the beauty of the effect they produce, and pruning or 
training of some kind is usually required and is almost 
always needful if the plant is to be seen at its best. 
Even the freest rambling Rose clambering up some tree 
is improved by cutting out some of its weak wood and 
removing all that is decayed. It is no addition to its 
charms to see a great dead branch projecting from the 
cloud of flowers, and thus a little timely attention will 
add greatly to the attractions of the plant. So, too, 
while Clematis Jackmanni and some others of free habit 
look very beautiful when rambling of their sweet will 
up a trellis or over an arch, a little timely training will 
make them more pleasing still ; while a careful study of 
the needs of the plants in the way of pruning will give 
results which will surprise those who have not fully 
considered the benefits derived from this necessary 
operation. 

Formality of training is especially to be avoided with 
climbing plants, but, in general, there is less of this 
than of neglect in restraining them so as to induce them 
to put forth their best features. One may instance the 
difference caused by regular clipping of Ivy on walls 
when compared with the results of the common practice 



i2 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



of leaving it to grow rampantly until it requires a drastic 
treatment which will spoil its beauty for a long time. 

It is impossible to detail the respective methods of 
training and pruning all these plants. Some flower on 
the older wood, and, in these cases, the strong growths 
should be left and the weak ones cut out with all 
decayed wood. Others, again, bloom on the young 
shoots of the current year. In this case, the old ones 
ought to be cut out and the fresh, young shoots 
encouraged. Some flower on spurs produced from 
the old wood, and are best treated by cutting out a 
number of the weakly shoots and shortening those left. 
In all cases a study of the particular species is necessary, 
as all the species in one genus do not always give the best 
results under the same treatment in the way of pruning. 
In the following pages some guidance is generally given 
where it is thought necessary, but it may be remarked 
that many amateurs do not prune early enough, and 
often leave until autumn or spring what should be 
done as soon as flowering is over. 

Supports for outside climbers deserve a few remarks. 
All walls are not of equal value as affording a suitable 
medium for the support of such as attach themselves to 
them. The least satisfactory is one whose surface is 
covered with cement, and it is with great difficulty that 
plants with aerial roots can attach themselves to this. 
Unpainted stone or brick makes the best walls, the latter 
being the warmer. It is often necessary to fasten the 
plants to the walls at the outset, and this may be done 
by means of shreds or, preferably, with some of the 
patent wall nails, which have soft metal tops, for 
bending round the stem of the plant. 

Trellises are favourite supports for wall plants and 
afford an ornamental support for climbers which require 
tying or which can attach themselves to them by means 
of their tendrils. Wire trellises are favourites with 




CLEMATIS, FAIRY QUEEN 
{Photo by E. J Walhs) 



f 




SOIL, PLANTING 



many, and certainly possess the important merit of per- 
manence and of requiring little expense to maintain them. 
The writer greatly prefers the appearance of those made 
of timber, which, also, seem to be more acceptable to 
the plants themselves. Wire trellis ought always to be 
painted so as to keep the frost from having the effect 
on the plants it would have were they left exposed. 

Wooden trellis is very inexpensive, and its duration 
will be all the greater if it receives one or two coats 
of paint before being nailed together. A common 
thickness is a quarter-inch, but a little more is advis- 
able. Three coats of paint are necessary at first, and 
one of raw linseed oil before painting will repay the 
outlay. Ready-made trellis is largely used, and is 
generally of good quality, while it is considerably 
cheaper than if made to order by an ordinary carpenter. 
Where it has to be affixed to posts sunk in the ground, 
the latter should be creosoted, tarred, or charred at the 
base and, if possible, fixed in concrete. 

One of the best methods of training climbers to walls 
is by means of galvanised wires attached to spikes with 
eyes and tightened with a raidisseur at one end. There 
are several suitable kinds of spikes and raidisseurs. These 
wires are also suitable for climbers grown under glass. 

For such climbers as Clematis flammula a good support 
is supplied by fixing lengths of wide-meshed wire netting 
to the wall, an inch or two from it, each length being 
fastened to the next by tying wire. 

For archways and arbours either wire or wood may 
be used, and the wire arches sold in such quantity do 
very well, though buyers sometimes make the mistake 
of purchasing an arch which is too low in the centre, 
with the result that the climbers are in the way of those 
passing beneath. Seven or eight feet will be more 
suitable than six. Rustic arches are expensive, and 
need not be of an elaborate character where they are 



1 6 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



to be entirely covered by the plants. A simple arch 
of four upright poles with cross ones will do perfectly 
well for many things. 

The pergola is rapidly becoming a favourite erection in 
gardens and owes its chief interest and beauty to the 
climbers which are trained to its pillars and shade its 
pathway. The pergola might be introduced into more 
gardens with advantage, but it ought always to be in 
such a situation that it forms either the entrance to a 
part of the garden or a pleasant feature of some path 
which leads to a definite object, instead of being, a? 
some are, without an apparent raison d'etre beyond that 
of affording a purely scenic effect. The structure 
of the pergola will depend upon the means of the 
owner, and may be an elaborate stone or brick erection, 
on which are laid cross beams of wood or trunks of 
trees to which the climbers are attached. Or it may 
be a simple erection of larch or other poles with others 
laid lengthways and crossed by similar poles. Light 
iron pillars bearing timbers can also be used, but the 
wooden pergola is generally the prettiest and the most 
welcome to the climbing plants. The uprights may 
be bedded in concrete in the soil or have their ends 
tarred or charred to preserve them. 

For a pillar, nothing looks so well as an unbarked 
tree of moderate thickness, but iron ones, either plain 
or formed of lattice work, are sometimes used. Other 
more or less elaborate contrivances, such as a stout 
central pole with chains radiating from it, are also 
formed. 

Climbing plants are subject to the attacks of various 
pests, both in the open and under glass. In the open 
these enemies are usually worse on a wall than else- 
where, and the less it is covered with foliage the greater 
the difficulty in keeping the plants free from them. 

Aphides are the causes of much annoyance and loss, 



SOIL, PLANTING 



17 



but may be destroyed by one of the many prepared 
insecticides now in the market, which are usually in 
a convenient form for use, and are efficacious if applied 
according to the maker's directions. A good preparation 
is made from one pound of soft soap and one pound of 
Quassia chips boiled in three gallons of water for about 
three or four hours, strained, mixed with other three 
gallons of water, and applied warm. 

Under glass, fumigation, is usually the most suitable 
way of dealing with Aphides, and the old remedy of 
tobacco-paper is becoming superseded by XL ALL or 
other insecticides, which are more safely and con- 
veniently applied. 

Red spider is often troublesome, especially under 
glass, and may be dealt with by Gishurst Compound or 
one of the numerous preparations for the purpose, as 
well as by dusting flowers of sulphur on the leaves, or 
using such a solution as one pound of flowers of sulphur to 
two pounds of quicklime, boiled in four gallons of water. 

Fumigation with some insecticide is also efficacious 
under glass ; while walls on which pests have gained a 
hold may be cleansed by mixing one pound of flowers of 
sulphur and two ounces of soft soap with clay and soot 
mixed with water to the consistency of paint. 

Mildew is also very troublesome, and Bordeaux 
Mixture is one of the best remedies for plants outside. 
It is poisonous, and a wise precaution is to refrain from 
applying it to fruits within some weeks of their being 
gathered. A good recipe for its preparation is I lb. 
quicklime, dissolved in cold water, with I lb. sulphate 
of copper, dissolved in a little hot water, added together 
when cool to 10 gallons of water, and applied with a 
spray, stirring thoroughly. Some add I lb. of treacle to 
the lime, as it slacks, to enable it to adhere more firmly. 

Scale and mealy bug are bad pests under glass, and 
may be destroyed by such things as Kerosene Emulsion, 

B 



1 8 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Fir-tree Oil, or Gishurst Compound, applied precisely 
as directed on the packages. This is essential, as many 
plants are injured by not adhering to these directions. 

In most cases it is much better to purchase some of 
these proprietary preparations than to make one which 
might be improperly compounded or made from material 
not fresh and thus ineffective. 

Under Glass 

Where the structures are so arranged that the climbers 
can be planted in a specially prepared bed, they are 
generally more satisfactory and more healthy than in 
pots. The bed should be thoroughly prepared, properly 
drained and filled with a compost of good, mellow loam, 
leaf soil and decayed manure, with some bone meal. In 
this bed the climbers ought to be carefully planted in a 
firm manner. 

It is not always possible to plant climbers out under 
glass, and they may therefore be grown in large pots or 
tubs, filled with such a compost as above described. 
Since the soil will soon become exhausted from becoming 
filled with roots, as much of the old soil as possible 
should be removed without taking out the plant, and 
replaced by fresh earth. Occasional waterings with 
liquid manure or water in which an artificial fertiliser 
has been dissolved, are necessary to maintain the plants 
in health when the pots become filled with roots. 

The necessity of repotting may be retarded by fitting 
a zinc ring on the top of the pot or tub, and filling this 
up with fresh earth. This will delay what is frequently 
a troublesome task when the climbers are trained to the 
walls or roof. 

Wire trellises, or wires strained along the walls, roof 
or rafters, are the best method of training climbers under 
glass. The wires should be a few inches from the glass 



SOIL, PLANTING 



19 



for roof climbers, and a little off the wall for those 
trained against a trellis. Many plants of climbing habit 
are frequently trained to balloon-shaped wire frames. 
Several other designs for such trellises are also em- 
ployed for the purpose of training such plants where 
not wanted to grow to a considerable height, and often 
for exhibitive purposes. 

Plants of a twining habit should have cords or wires 
to twist round unless trained to branches. 

If careful training is desirable for outdoor climbers it 
is even more necessary with those under glass, and care 
must also be taken that their growth is not too thick for 
the plants beneath those on the rafters. 

Ventilation also requires some consideration, and as a 
planted-out climber cannot be removed to another part 
of the house, climbing plants ought to be in such a 
position that they will not be subjected to draughts of 
cold wind when the ventilators are open. 

As is to be expected, climbing plants grown under 
glass are subject to various pests, which must be dealt 
with promptly and before they have taken possession of 
the plants. The " stitch in time" is very essential with 
plants which cannot be taken out of doors, and cannot be 
dealt with except in their present position. Aphides, 
mealy bug, scale and the other enemies of these climbers 
must be dealt with by using the various remedies known 
to gardeners. A foul roof plant is sure to tell badly by 
infecting the flowers below. Fumigation ought to be 
done on the first sign of green fly. 

In the chapters devoted to the various classes of 
climbing plants the suitable methods of propagation for 
each genus are stated in a brief way, for convenience, but 
it will be advantageous to deal shortly with the general 
modes of propagation applicable to such plants as a whole. 

Annuals are, as a matter of course, propagated from 
seeds, and this is also a suitable and profitable manner 



2o THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



of raising any of the perennials which produce seeds in 
this country, or of which fresh imported seeds can be 
procured. Seeds of hardy climbers can be sown on a 
prepared bed of fine soil from April to the beginning 
of July in the open, and in pots, pans or boxes under 
glass earlier in spring in slight heat. The seeds of the 
more tender ones can be sown in a hot-bed or with 
bottom heat from February onwards. The soil must 
be rich and light, with a large proportion of leaf-mould 
and sand. The depth to which the seeds are covered 
depends upon their size, the smaller seeds being only 
slightly covered with fine soil. 

Cuttings are also convenient means of propagating the 
perennial climbing plants, and directions regarding the 
greater number which can thus be increased appear in 
other chapters. Some strike better from young shoots, 
with or without a heel of the old wood, while others do 
best from the half, or wholly ripened wood in autumn. 
The cuttings of hardy climbers may be put into a cold 
frame or struck under a handlight or glass in the open, 
and shaded from sun until they have rooted. Most of 
the tender ones do best struck in sand under a glass in 
heat. Grafting on the stocks of the commoner species is 
a common method of propagation with some varieties. 
For many climbing plants layering is a most suitable 
means of increasing the stock, their habit of growth 
generally making it convenient to lay one of the stems 
or branches along on the soil, pegging it down, and 
covering the place with some light soil, kept moist until 
roots are emitted, when the plant may be cut off from 
the parent. They may also be layered in pots for greater 
convenience in removing. Spring and autumn are the 
best times for layering. Root division answers well 
for the herbaceous climbers and a number of others, 
while those which produce suckers are easily dealt with 
by removing these from the parents in spring or autumn. 



CHAPTER III 



ANNUAL CLIMBING PLANTS 

Value and Uses — Perennials treated as Annuals — Hardy Annuals- 
Preparation of Soil — Sowing Seeds — Thinning out — Tropseolums 
— Sweet Peas — Ipomceas — Maurandya — Amphicarpaea — Echino- 
cystis — Half-hardy Annuals— Sowing — Ipomoeas — Eccremocarpus 
— Gourds — Cobaea — Thunbergia — Mina — Passiflora — Japanese 
— Hop — Adlumia — Grammatocarpus — Dolichos — Tender Annuals 
— Ipomoea — Citrullus — Porana — Sowing. 

While perennial climbing plants are more useful as a 
whole, the annuals of similar habit have many claims 
upon our notice, both from their beauty and because of 
the value they possess for ornamenting places where 
perennials would be out of place. They may also be 
used temporarily for positions which will eventually be 
covered with perennial climbers which have not become 
sufficiently established to cover the desired space. For 
this purpose, those of a slender and non-encroaching 
character are to be preferred so as to avoid weakening 
and injuring the growth of the permanent ones. In the 
table of suitable plants the annual climbers have been 
divided into Hardy Annuals, Half-Hardy Annuals, and 
Tender Annuals. In the lists are also included some 
plants of perennial habit, but which will flower the first 
year from seed. These are frequently too tender to 
stand the winter of a great part of the British Isles and 
are thus most" satisfactorily treated as annuals. The 
Eccremocarpus is one of these, although it will not 
only survive the winter but will occasionally remain 
evergreen in the milder coast districts. The common 



22 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Tropaeolum is also a perennial in a warm house, though 
it is one of the most tender of annual climbers generally 
grown outdoors. 

The list of hardy annual climbers which may be safely 
treated as such and are sown in March and April outside 
where they are to bloom, is comparatively short. It 
may, however, be supplemented by those which are 
half-hardy, which may be sown outside when April is 
almost at an end, and even earlier in warm districts. 

The preparation of the station for these annual climbers 
ought to be thoroughly done if the best results are 
desired. Even the common Tropaeolum majus, which 
will thrive on almost any soil, will attain a much greater 
height and cover more space if in rich, well manured 
soil, and it is desirable to have the place well and 
deeply dug and manured with thoroughly decayed 
manure, before sowing the seeds. The seeds ought to 
be covered with fine soil to a depth of rather more than 
their own thickness, though that is enough for those 
sown in pots, pans, or boxes, and placed under glass to 
germinate. 

Unless done previously, as soon as the young plants 
appear the support to which they are to attach them- 
selves ought to be placed in position, and when of 
sufficient size the young plants led to it if they have 
shown no signs of attaching themselves. As soon as 
they can be handled they ought also to be well thinned 
out, remembering always that one well-grown robust 
climber will give better results and cover as much or 
more space than half-a-dozen which are too close and 
have not sufficient room to develop. 

Hardy Annuals 

Common though it is, there is no more effective hardy 
annual climber than the Tropaeolum, as represented by 



ANNUAL CLIMBING PLANTS 23 



T. lobbianum, or the common Nasturtium of gardens 
— T. majus. The former is the preferable of the two, 
as it has smaller foliage and more flowers, and altogether 
gives a much better effect. The slight additional cost 
of the seed is well repaid. It seems unnecessary to 
name the varieties of these Tropaeolums, as the best 
will be found offered at a reasonable price in seedsmen's 
catalogues, which those who wish separate colours may 
study. Many prefer the mixed varieties, but a finer 
effect is often produced by planting separate colours, 
such as the fine scarlet T. 1. cardinale, the dark-foliaged 
scarlet Fulgens, the spotless yellow Golden Queen, the 
ivy-leafed scarlet hederaefolium, or the new Princess 
Victoria Louise, with its creamy flowers blotched with 
orange-scarlet, and with orange-red calyx and spur. 

Ever popular, too, is the Canary Creeper, T. pere- 
grinum or aduncum, whose beautiful yellow flowers, on 
equally attractive foliage, decorate so many walls in 
summer and autumn. 

Still more popular, and more useful as yielding so 
many charming flowers for cutting, is the Sweet Pea, 
as Lathyrus odoratus is universally called. It does not 
ascend so high, however, as the Tropaeolums, but is 
exceedingly useful for covering low walls, trellises, and 
rough hedges, draping them with its leaves and exquisite 
flowers. The bush forms and the Cupid Sweet Peas 
are, of course, of no use for climbing, and some day some 
one will possibly make it more useful for our purpose 
by raising still taller kinds. The removal of decaying 
flowers or seed-pods is even more necessary when the 
Sweet Pea is used as a decorative climber than in any 
other way. Another favourite, which some class as a 
half-hardy annual, is Ipomoea purpurea, the common 
climbing Convolvulus major of gardens. Its correct 
name of I. purpurea is rather misleading, as this twining 
plant, which should be supplied with string or twiggy 



24 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



branches to twine about, yields many varieties, ranging 
from the white alba, through various shades and colours, 
to deep blue and crimson. Burridgei is a good deep 
crimson, Dicksoni a deep blue, and rosea a fine pink. 
Maurandya barclayana is another very attractive plant 
when treated as a hardy or half-hardy annual. It is 
generally grown in mixed colours, though the type is 
violet and is very useful and pretty as a climber. Other 
less known hardy or half-hardy climbing annuals are 
Amphicarpaea monoica, with pretty violet and white 
flowers, and the white-flowered, spiny-fruited Echino- 
cystis lobata, a gourd-like plant classed by some in this 
class of annuals, though, perhaps, better treated as half- 
hardy. 

Half-hardy Annuals 

All the climbers already named may be treated as 
half-hardy and, like those which follow, may be sown 
on a mild hot-bed or a close unheated frame in March 
or early April. They can also be sown in pans or boxes 
in a greenhouse, if kept near the glass after the seedlings 
appear and are supplied with fresh air. For later 
flowering they can be sown where they are to bloom 
in the end of April and beginning of May. If raised 
under glass they ought to be hardened off before 
planting out, and after being pricked out a little 
distance apart in boxes. 

The half-hardy Ipomoeas are among the most desirable, 
and the newer forms are even more appreciated than the 
varieties of I. purpurea already referred to. Those sold 
in the seed trade as I. grandiflora, which are varieties of 
the charming I. Bona-Nox, are among the prettiest with 
their large flowers, called by the way, " Moonflowers." 
Alba and Hesperus are among the finest of the white 
ones. The new class called Imperialis is a very beautiful 



ANNUAL CLIMBING PLANTS 25 



one and comprises fringed flowers of great size and in 
many colours besides those of the ordinary Convolvulus. 
These are said to have been raised from I. hederacea, a 
species of Convolvulus with Ivy-shaped leaves. I. h. Huberi 
is a class with the leaves mottled with white. The 
Eccremocarpus or Calampelis is another favourite which 
will bloom the first year from seed, though perennial in 
mild gardens. It has racemes of flowers of considerable 
beauty. The best species is scaber, with orange-coloured 
flowers ; its variety roseus has pretty rosy blooms. For 
a sunny trellis there is little to surpass it. 

The Ornamental Gourds are a host in themselves, and 
ought to be more largely cultivated for the curiosity and 
beauty of their fruit, which assumes so many singular 
forms. Among the Cucumises there are the interesting 
Cucumis acutangulus, the attractive C. Dudaim, with 
mottled Melon-like fruit, the spiny Hedgehog Cucumber, 
C. erinaceus, or the pretty Gooseberry Gourd, C. myrio- 
carpus, with its small fruits. The Malabar Gourd, 
Cucurbita melanosperma, produces fine variegated, 
fruits, while C. Pepo is attractive from the profusion of 
small fruits it yields ; of these many varieties can be 
procured, such as those with Apple-like fruits, those 
with egg-shaped, warted, or Pear-shaped fruits, besides 
a number of others. The warted-fruited orange 
Momordica Charantia is also desirable, as are Trichos- 
anthes anguina and Cyclanthera pedata. Among the 
most desirable of climbers which flower the same year 
as sown are Cobaea scandens, which has beautiful bell- 
shaped violet-blue flowers, and the charming, slender- 
growing Thunbergia alata in mixed varieties of various 
shades of yellow, orange and white. These are charming 
either in the open or under glass. The pretty plant 
known as Mina lobata is properly Ipomoea versicolor, and 
few fail to admire its ornamental racemes of pretty red 
or crimson flowers. The annual Passifloras, gracilis, 



26 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



white with red fruit, and lutea. yellow, might be tried 
for a change from more common things in a warm, 
sheltered corner. 

There are some who want a climber with rapid 
growth and with ornamental foliage. Such will find 
the Japanese Hop, Humulus japonicus. just what they 
want. It grows quickly and will soon cover a large 
space with its fine leaves, while the variegated form 
with its white-blotched leaves will suit those who desire 
an easily raised foliage plant tor covering a large wall 
or trellis in a short time. The biennial Adiumia 
cirrhosa. a slender growing Fumitory, is worth having, 
but it must, of course, be sown the vear before it is 
wanted to bloom, and be wintered under glass. It has 
pink blooms. One may also mention the yellow annual 
Grammatocarpus volubiiis as an interesting twiner, and, 
for a variety, some mav care to grow as an annual the 
Lablab. Doiichos Lablab. which has violet flowers, 
succeeded bv bean-shaped pods. There are several 
varieties of this plant now offered. 



Tender Annuals 

A considerable number of tender annuals of climbing 
habit suitable only for growing under glass are not in 
commerce, and it appears to be unnecessary to sav 
anything about these. Xearlv all in the other classes 
can be serviceably empioved for the decoration of the 
conservatory, and will give much gratification to their 
owner. One may mention, however, the pretty Ipomcea 
Ouamoclit. often called Ouamoclit vulgaris, or the 
Cypress Vine, as more suitable tor growing under glass 
than in the open in many rarts or these island-. It has 
pretty scarlet rlowers. Citrulius vulgaris, the Water 
Melon, may also be employed in the stove or inter- 



ANNUAL CLIMBING PLANTS 27 



mediate house. Porana racemosa, with white flowers, 
is also worthy of a trial, but the bulk of the most 
ornamental annual climbers in cultivation will be found 
among the half-hardy species. All should be sown in 
heat and grown on under glass, being allowed plenty 
of space and good soil. 



CHAPTER IV 



HARDY DECIDUOUS AND HERBACEOUS CLIMBERS 

The Vitis — Ampelopsis — Wistarias — Loniceras — Apios — Rubuses — 
Jasminums — Aristolochia — Hydrangea — Schizophragma — Muehlen- 
beckia — Lyciums — Periploca — Polygonum — Lathyrus — Calystegias 
— Convolvulus — Cynananchum — Actinidias — Decumaria — Celastrus 
— Hablitzia — Humulus — Ipomcea — Cucumis — Megarrhiza — Meni- 
spermum— Mutisias — Tropseolums. 

In this large and important division of climbing plants 
there is more than sufficient choice to satisfy the most 
ardent lover of such beautiful subjects. They include 
among them plants of great diversity of character and are 
adapted for many purposes. In cold districts' they form 
generally the most satisfactory section of climbers with 
the exception of such evergreens as the Ivy and a few 
others, or some of the wall shrubs not of true climbing 
habit. 

One of the most important genera is that of the Vitis, 
or Vine. This really includes the greater number of 
the plants grown as Ampelopsis, but the force of habit 
is so powerful that it will be long before these will be 
known by any other name, so that they are kept distinct 
here. It is needless to say much in favour of the Vine. 
Apart from its merits as a fruiting plant, and cultivated 
simply for its decorative foliage, its principal use in the 
open garden, it is one of the most beautiful of deciduous 
climbers for the wall, the arbour, the trellis, or for 
clambering up a tree, as in any of these positions the 
fine leaves are ornamental either in summer or, more 
»8 



HERBACEOUS CLIMBERS 



particularly, in autumn, when it assumes its glorious 
autumn tints. The varieties of Vitis vinifera, the 
European Grape Vine, are most attractive, but there 
are others of more striking beauty and of greater 
distinctness. In the table of Hardy Deciduous and 
Herbaceous Climbers at the end of this work there 
is a list of some of the finest of these, and space will 
not allow of detailed descriptions. Any will give 
pleasure, but among the finest of recent introductions is 
V. Coignetiae, whose handsome foliage is admired by 
any one. Its vigorous growth makes it suitable for 
almost any purpose for which tall climbers are desired. 
Further reference to the Vine is rendered unnecessary 
by the "Book of the Grape," published in this series, 
which may be consulted by those desiring to make a 
study of these fine climbing plants or who wish to try 
them as fruiting climbers out of doors. 

The Ampelopsis, or Virginian Creeper, as it is 
popularly called, is a great favourite with everyone, 
and the introduction of that known as A. Veitchii, or 
tricuspidata, whose correct designation is Vitis inconstans, 
has greatly popularised the family, because of its self- 
clinging habit, not possessed by A. quinquefolia, or 
hederacea, the older " Virginian Creeper." There is an 
effective variety named purpurea, which has darker 
leaves, assuming an even deeper hue than the ordinary 
form in autumn. So well known a plant needs no 
further reference. Another very desirable self-clinging 
Ampelopsis is A. muralis, which grows rapidly and has 
large leaves, which are of great beauty of colour in 
autumn. Another, sometimes sold as A. Hoggii, is 
really the Japanese form of Rhus Toxicodendron, and 
pretty as is its crimson and yellow autumnal foliage, it 
should be avoided by those who are sensitive to the 
irritant properties of some plants. Coming in contact 
with it will cause a stinging sensation of a most annoying 



3 o THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



kind to such persons, though the writer handles it at 
various seasons without any discomfort arising. Though 
it has no tendrils to enable it to cling to a wall, the old 
A. quinquefolia is very handsome, and may be made use 
of in many ways, such as among the branches of a dark- 
leaved tree to lighten it up with its fiery autumn tints, 
or among some rambling early-blooming Roses, or even 
over an arbour. Its large leaves and fine tints, 
especially in a dry soil, make it valuable. A. aconiti- 
folia, which has a number of synonyms, among them 
being that of Vitis dissecta, is a pleasing plant with 
reddish branches and pretty leaves. All of these 
Ampelopsis will grow in any soil, but often colour more 
beautifully on a dry, than on a rich one. They are 
propagated by seeds, sown under glass in spring, by 
cuttings under a glass, or by eyes like Vines. The 
self-clinging species require little training except 
keeping them within bounds, but the others may need 
to be guided among the branches which are to support 
them, and if trained to a wall will require to be fastened 
to it. 

One of the most delightful and effective of our 
flowering climbers is the Wistaria, whose bunches of 
fine flowers are greatly admired, especially when the 
plant has attained a considerable size and has been 
properly attended to in the way of training. There are 
not many species recognised by botanists as such, and it 
is doubtful if some of these even are anything but 
varieties of the one known as W. chinensis. However 
this may be, all are worthy of being grown, and 
intending purchasers may choose any from the table 
at the end without scruple, though W. c. alba 
generally flowers with rather less freedom than the 
coloured forms. It is pretty to associate with the others, 
and is always charming with its long racemes of drooping 
flowers. The form called multijuga is one of the 



HERBACEOUS CLIMBERS 



finest, and there is another variety of W. chinensis with 
silvery variegated leaves. The "Wistarias are propagated 
by layers, and those grown on walls are best pruned by 
filling up the space by the branches and cutting back to 
these to encourage the production of flowering spurs. 

The Loniceras or Honeysuckles are also general 
favourites because of their fragrance. Some are not 
climbers, but among the best of the climbing species are 
the varieties of L. Periclymenum, the common Honey- 
suckle ; the yellow-flowered Caprifolium, also with 
fragrant flowers ; the pleasing etrusca with yellow and 
purple-scented flowers ; the light-yellow flava hirsuta ; 
and the favourite japonica with reddish flowers, its 
variety flexuosa, also called brachypoda, which is 
yellow ; and the pretty golden netted foliaged form of 
japonica named aureo-reticulata, which, however, requires 
the shelter of a cold greenhouse in some neighbourhoods. 
When grown on warm walls some of these Honeysuckles 
are much infested with aphides, unless occasionally 
washed with some preventative insecticide. They are 
most pleasing rambling up a tree or over an arbour. 
Another pretty arbour plant, though not brilliant in 
colour, is Apios tuberosa, a hardy tuberous plant with 
fragrant purple-brown flowers, more attractive than this 
description of their colour would indicate. For an 
arbour or low trellis it is a desirable climber. 

The Rubuses, or Brambles, are not sufficiently 
appreciated as wall or climbing plants, especially the 
double-flowered forms of our common Blackberry or 
Bramble. These are called albus plenus and roseus 
plenus, the former having white flowers and the latter 
beautiful light rosy blooms. They are as easy to grow 
as our common typical species fruticosus, and look very 
beautiful indeed. Those who wish to combine the 
useful and the ornamental may grow the Parsley or 
Cut-leaved Bramble, R. laciniatus, which gives a good 



32 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



crop of fruit as a rule, and is ornamental with its 
deeply-cut foliage. It is a better fruiter in cold neigh- 
bourhoods than the American Blackberries, which 
generally give larger fruit. On some sheltered walls 
in warm neighbourhoods the low-growing R. australis, 
which has pink or white flowers, is remarkably interest- 
ing with its leafless, spiny branches. The double 
rossefolius coronarius, with white blooms, is also pretty ; 
and the showy spectabilis, which has red flowers, is 
worthy of a good place on a wall. R. phoenicolasius, 
the Japanese Wineberry, is very ornamental with its 
decorative stems and branches and its bunches of scarlet 
fruit, which succeed the small pinkish-white flowers. 
Birds are remarkably fond of the berries. Biflorus 
and leucodermis, known as the 66 Whitewashed 
Brambles/' from the white bloom on their stem and 
branches, are good plants for winter effect in the 
shrubbery. Their flowers are white. 

Everyone knows the Winter-flowering Yellow Jasmine, 
Jasminum nudiflorum, whose leafless, drooping branches 
are so gay with bloom in midwinter or early spring. It 
looks at its best when it has a background of some dark 
evergreen wall climber, such as Ivy. Then its white 
congener J. officinale, one of our sweetest flowers, is 
equally well - known, while in J. humile we have a 
pretty summer-blooming, yellow-flowered species. It 
is easily propagated by layering or by cuttings struck in 
a shady border under a handlight, and is the better of a 
little thinning out of the weak branches and of cutting 
back those which are of too great length for their 
position. One of the most effective of our deciduous 
foliage climbers is Aristolochia Sipho, the Birthwort, 
whose large, handsome leaves are of striking effect on a 
wall or a pergola, or almost in any way in which a 
vigorous climber can be used. The curious flowers are 
yellow and brown, but its attraction in our climate 



HERBACEOUS CLIMBERS 



depends on its leaves. It is thoroughly hardy. Two 
climbers of great interest, but which seem to flower 
badly as a rule in our climate, are the climbing 
Hydrangeas, as they are called. The first, Hydrangea 
petiolaris, is a little tender and ought to have some 
protection. It has white flowers. The other, Schizo- 
phragma hydrangeoides, has white or pinkish flowers, 
and is a capital climber, but has the pronounced fault of 
unsatisfactory flowering in the open, even on a sunny 
wall. They like common soil with a little peat and 
plenty of moisture. Another pretty plant which flowers 
unsatisfactorily, though its. greenish flowers are of 
little account, is Muehienbeckia complexa, more suited 
for a trailer than a climber, but which. can be grown 
over tree stumps or trained up a wall. Its foliage is 
ornamental, and it makes a nice covering of deep green. 
Good foliage plants also are the Lyciums, or Tea trees, 
of which two of the best are barbarum, which has small 
purple and yellow flowers, and europaeum, which has 
pale violet blooms. They look pretty on a trellised 
wall, are hardy, and can be propagated by cuttings or 
layers. Periploca graeca, the Silk Vine, is a decorative 
plant for covering a space quickly. Its foliage is pretty, 
and the greenish flowers, which are brown inside, have 
silky hairs about them, which give rise to its popular 
name. It grows best from layers, but may also be 
propagated by cuttings under a hand-light in summer. 

One of the climbing plants of comparatively recent 
introduction which have deservedly attracted some notice, 
is Polygonum baldschuanicum, a pretty, slender climber 
with white flowers. It is a capital thing for climbing 
over a bush or about a thin pole. 

The Lathyruses or perennial Peas are of great 
consequence among herbaceous climbers. Had they 
only the fragrance of the Sweet Pea they would increase 
in favour more rapidly than they have done. Grandi- 

C 



34 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



florus has the finest flowers, and it is of less rampant 
growth above than latifolius, though it makes up for 
this by running a great deal at the roots. It must thus 
be planted where it is not likely to encroach on other 
things. It has rose flowers of considerable size, pro- 
duced generally in pairs. Quite distinct is the broad- 
leaved Everlasting Pea, L. latifolius. The typical form 
has rose flowers, but there are also a number of pretty 
varieties, such as albus, white ; delicatus, pale pink ; 
and splendens, deep rose. It is a vigorous grower in a 
dry sunny place, and does well in a hedge when once 
established. Other good perennial Peas are nervosus, 
blue-purple, and rotundifolius, rose ; pubescens is a 
charming pale-blue Lathyrus, which must either be 
grown in a cool house, or on a trellis or a wall in warm 
localities. All of these can be raised from seeds, or 
propagated by division, but the named or white varieties 
of L. latifolius cannot be relied upon to come true from 
seed. One generally associates these in one's mind 
with the Calystegias and Convolvulus. Among the 
former there are two very ornamental plants, Calystegia 
dahurica, with large pink flowers, and C. pubescens 
fl. pi., with pretty pink or whitish flowers. Like the 
Convolvulus, the Calystegia is a twining plant. Of 
the Convolvuluses, there may be named althaeoides, a 
low twiner, with rosy-purple blooms and silvery leaves ; 
Scammonia, a handsome cream-coloured one ; and tenu- 
issimus, a pink, low twiner. Pretty as are the flowers 
of our common Convolvulus of the hedgerows, it ought 
not to be allowed to enter the garden on account of its 
encroaching habit of undergrowth. A twining plant 
not often seen is Cynananchum acutum, which has pink 
or white flowers. Of somewhat similar growth is the 
greenish-white Berchemia volubilis, which is, however, 
of shrubby habit. The Actinidias are also ornamental 
climbers not much cultivated, and the best among them 



HERBACEOUS CLIMBERS 



are Kolomikta and volubilis. Both have white flowers ; 
and the greatest attraction of the former lies to some in 
the ornamental autumnal tints of the leaves. These may 
be raised from seeds, cuttings, or layers. Decumaria 
barbarea is another little grown twiner, which does 
well against a sunny wall in a border of dry soil. It 
has a number of sweet-scented white flowers, and is 
propagated by cuttings under a glass in summer. Nor 
is Celastrus scandens, the climbing Staff Tree, much 
grown with its racemes of small pale-yellow blooms, 
followed by orange-coloured berries. It grows best 
from layers. Hablitzia tamnoides is principally grown 
for its leaves, the flowers being green and small. It is 
herbaceous, and is increased by division. 

The common Hop, Humulus Lupulus, may be used 
as a herbaceous climber in rough places, and is very 
ornamental indeed, soon covering a large space, and 
looking pretty with its leaves and flowers. It has, 
however, a great drawback for many places, as it is 
difficult to keep from spreading too quickly at the 
root, especially if it is planted near other plants which 
ought not to be disturbed to keep it within bounds. 
Nor is it choice enough when there are so many better 
things which could be grown instead. Those who 
wish a yellow-leaved plant will find it in the variety 
H. L. aureus. Ipomoea pandurata is a pretty twiner for 
a choice place where it can be kept in bounds. It is 
seldom seen, and has white Convolvulus-like flowers 
with a purplish throat. Two interesting perennial 
cucurbitaceous plants are furnished in Cucumis perennis, 
or, as it is also called, Cucurbita perennis, which has 
roundish fruit, and Megarrhiza, or Echinocystis, 
californica, which has small roundish fruit, like that 
of a Sweet Chestnut, covered thickly with small spines. 
These are best propagated by seeds sown under glass 
in spring. Menispermum candadense, the Moon Seed, 



3 6 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



is an ornamental plant, which has the merit of doing 
well on a rather damp and shady wall, a position for 
which few climbers of this kind are suitable. The 
greenish-yellow flowers are less attractive than the 
cordate leaves, and the moon-shaped seed pods. It 
can be propagated by cuttings or by division of the 
root in spring. 

Two very ornamental climbers are left of those 
deserving notice here. One is the Mutisia, decurrens, 
a rare and strikingly beautiful twining perennial, with 
large orange-coloured flowers, and rather lanceolate 
leaves, terminated by a tendril, being the better of 
those now referred to. It likes a soil of peat and sand 
and a shady position, but is somewhat difficult to 
establish, and those in wet districts will find it an 
advantage to try a little limestone among the soil. It 
is safer to secure a plant in a pot, from which it can 
be turned out with the roots in the ball of soil. 
Another Mutisia, named M. Clematis, is hardy on a wall 
in the south only. 

The other is one of the most charming and admired 
of all herbaceous climbers. This is Tropgeolum 
speciosum, the Flame Nasturtium, which attracts so 
much attention from tourists in Scotland, and is in 
autumn so charming with its bright scarlet flowers and 
its pretty green foliage. Although it likes a shady 
position, and a cool, moist, peaty soil, these are not 
absolutely essential, though it is not likely to thrive 
well on a dry sunny wall in an arid locality. April 
is the most suitable time to plant it, and the roots 
should be firmly trampled into the soil, which may also 
have a proportion of gravel among it. Plants in pots 
can also be purchased at a moderate price, and these 
have a better chance of success than the others. After 
planting, copious and frequent supplies of water are 
necessary, and the cultivator need not be disappointed 



HERBACEOUS CLIMBERS 



if the Tropaeolum makes little growth the first season. 
If it appear the second year, and is well attended to 
in the way of water supply, it will grow more vigor- 
ously, although one can hardly be sure of having 
established it until it has reached a height of six or 
seven feet in the second season. It must also have 
twine or rough twigs to cling to. T. tuberosum is 
only half-hardy and the tubers ought to be treated 
like potatoes, planted out in April, and lifted when 
the foliage becomes yellow, and stored in a frost-proof 
place in winter. 



CHAPTER V 



HARDY EVERGREEN CLIMBERS 

Importance — Uses — Ivy — Jasminum — Berberidopsis — Passifloras — 
Clianthus — Ercilla or Bridgesia — Smilax — Bignonia — Tecomas — 
Araujias — Cocculus — Holboellia — Stauntonia — Lardizabala — 
Mitraria — Vitis striata — Billardiera. 

As may be expected in our climate, the number of 
hardy climbing plants with evergreen foliage is com- 
paratively limited, but their importance is relatively 
large, as they are of immense utility in covering bare 
walls and unsightly objects in winter, when the de- 
ciduous plants are leafless and bare. It is only necessary 
to think of the beauty of a common Ivy in its evergreen 
garb in the leafless season for other plants to recognise 
its value. The few evergreen climbers we have may, 
of course, be supplemented by the evergreen wall shrubs 
mentioned in another chapter, but like evergreens in 
the shrubbery, they must be used with judgment, and 
not planted indiscriminately to the exclusion of the 
beautiful deciduous climbers. The fresh young leaves 
of the deciduous climbing plants are delightful in spring, 
and frequently die off with the most vivid colouring 
when autumn comes. These evergreen plants ought 
thus to be planted with due consideration, but it is 
possible to make them add to the charms of the de- 
ciduous ones by using them as a background to these. 
Thus, a dark-leaved Ivy may form the ground-work 
for a bright Jasmine or a slender Eccremocarpus, or 
for many others of slender habit, whose flowers and 
38 



HARDY EVERGREEN CLIMBERS 39 



leaves are only seen to full advantage when in front 
of some dark-leaved evergreen plant. 

It is well to remark that some of those here named 
may lose their leaves in winter, especially if exposed to 
cold draughts, and that some of those in the list of 
deciduous and herbaceous climbers retain them in very 
mild places. 

The best and most useful of all our hardy evergreen 
climbers is undoubtedly the Ivy, as it is universally called 
by the British people, the botanical name of Hedera being 
little used in gardens. The principal species, Hedera 
Helix, gives us many varieties and, though greatly used, 
might well be still more widely cultivated for the sake of 
its many beautiful forms, a number of which are but little 
known. Objection is taken to the growth of Ivy on the 
walls of dwellings by some on the alleged ground that 
it renders them damp and that the shoots enter any 
crevices and destroy the walls. The former is a fallacy, 
and Ivy has the opposite effect, not only throwing off the 
rain, but drawing the moisture out by its aerial rootlets 
which cling to the wall. Nor is there any danger of it 
entering the joints of the wall if this has been properly 
built and pointed, as all walls should be. In planting 
Ivy it is often necessary to fasten it to the wall at first, 
until it can attach itself to it. Cemented walls it dislikes, 
and it is with some difficulty that it can attach itself to 
them in the ordinary way. The annual clipping of Ivy 
to keep it neat and tidy should never be neglected where 
a trim appearance is desired. The best time for this 
operation is the month of March, just before the young 
leaves begin to make their growth. The clipping ought 
to be thoroughly performed and the Ivy clipped in close to 
the wall. It may look rather bare for a short time, but in 
a month or two its appearance will convince all who see 
it of the beneficial effect of the operation. At the same 
time it should be trimmed off below the eaves, as it 



4 o THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



ought not by any means be allowed to climb on to the 
roof, which it would soon destroy by inserting its 
growths between the slates or tiles. As a wall plant 
it is very ornamental, but its uses are even wider, as it 
can be grown over trellises out of doors or in the house, 
over tree stumps, and also on rockeries, for the latter 
purpose the little Hedera H. minima being one of the 
most suitable for covering large stones or small rocks. 
It may be well to remind those who grow it on living 
trees that it ought not to be allowed to grow far up the 
trunk, but kept to within six or eight feet of the base. 

There are too many Ivies to name in detail, and only 
a selection can be referred to, seeing that there are 
upwards of a hundred named varieties. One of the 
most popular of these, because of its rapid growth, is 
H. H. canariensis, the Irish Ivy, which has very large 
leaves, though its somewhat loose habit makes it less 
useful where neatness is desired. There is a pretty 
variegated form of considerable beauty. A popular large- 
leaved variety is dentata, which has fine, heart-shaped 
leaves and which grows freely. Another of much the 
same character but, if anything, to be preferred^ is 
amurensis. Rsegneriana is another which is a good 
deal grown for its fine, thick, heart-shaped leaves. A 
pretty yellowish-green Ivy is H. H. algeriensis, and it 
also has a pleasing, variegated variety occasionally called 
canescens. H. H. aurantia has greyish-green leaves 
prettily veined, and cuspidata is another good one with 
grey-green leaves. A distinct variety with rather 
deeply-lobed, digitate leaves is H. H. digitata, and 
lobata major is another with deeply-cut lobes. 
Marmorata, which has a creamy white margin, is also 
pleasing ; while sagittaefolia, deep green, rhombea, green 
margined white, and variegata margined with silver, are 
all very attractive. The Ivy is readily propagated by 
cuttings in spring or autumn or by layers. 



HARDY EVERGREEN CLIMBERS 41 



A garden is hardly complete without one or two of 
the Jasmines ; and while the common white Jasmine, 
Jasminum officinale, is deciduous, it is a general 
favourite with its sweet-scented flowers. There may 
also be grown the yellow-flowered J. revolutum, which 
reminds one of a summer-blooming J. nudiflorum, but 
with the flowers associated with the leaves. It may be 
cultivated in a sunny position, against a wall or a trellis, 
and is propagated by cuttings of ripe wood inserted 
in a shady border under a handlight or bell-glass. 
J. revolutum flowers from June until autumn. J. 
fruticans is like the latter. 

One of the most attractive of our climbing plants is 
Berberidopsis corallina, which has a doubtful character 
for hardiness, but which is hardier than many suppose 
if it is given a warm wall free from exposure to cold 
draughts of wind. It has very ornamental, glossy 
leaves, and charming, pendant, scarlet flowers. This 
Chilian plant is propagated by layering the branches 
in autumn, or by sowing seeds in a slight heat in 
spring. Although not evergreen or hardy every- 
where, Passiflora caerulea is so in many places, 
and is one of the most delightful of our summer- 
flowering climbers. Its short-lived flowers are very 
pretty, and even prettier are those of the white variety 
called Constance Elliott, whose blooms have a stronger 
scent than those of the typical form. The Passion 
Flowers should have a sunny wall and are pro- 
pagated by cuttings of the young shoots, struck in 
bottom heat. They may also be grown from the seeds 
produced in the attractive yellow fruit, which they should 
ripen freely in a favourable position. Care should be 
taken in training the Passion Flowers to fasten in or cut 
out the shoots which can be dispensed with ; after the 
bloom is over they can be cut back and thinned out. 

One of the most striking of climbers is Clianthus 



42 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



puniceus, the Parrot's Beak or Glory Vine, but, un- 
fortunately, it is only hardy in some places, though 
more frequent trials would probably prove it to be 
satisfactory in districts where it is now considered 
tender. It is a very ornamental plant when in bloom, 
and the slight protection it requires is well repaid by 
the effect it produces with its curious, brightly coloured, 
scarlet blooms. It can be grown from seeds sown under 
glass in spring or by cuttings in sand in bottom heat 
under glass. Rather rough loam with some leaf-soil is 
the most suitable compost. Pruning in spring by cutting 
back the leading and lateral shoots is the most suitable. 
The fine variety of C. puniceus named magnificus is 
cultivated in a similar manner. Ercilla, or Bridgesia, 
spicata or volubi is another attractive wall plant, which 
clings to a building as closely as Ivy, and which has 
thick leaves and racemes of purplish flowers. This 
Ercilla is quite hardy, but is comparatively little culti- 
vated. It will grow in common soil, and may be 
propagated by layers or cuttings. 

The Smilaxes occasionally grown in our country are 
principally S. aspera and S. rotundifolia, which are 
slender evergreen climbers, which will stand our winters 
in most localities unless exposed to strong currents of 
wind. The flowers are of no importance, but the leaves 
are fresh and attractive looking. The variety of S. aspera 
named mauritanica is more tender than the typical species. 
They like a rather light soil, and are propagated by 
division. 

Bignonia capreolata, a very ornamental climber, is 
hardy in warm localities only, but is well worthy of a 
trial in many sheltered places for covering a wall or 
training up a tree. It has handsome orange-coloured 
flowers in racemes, likes a compost of loam and peat, 
and requires thinning-out some of the shoots so as to 
ripen those which are left. It is propagated by cuttings 



HARDY EVERGREEN CLIMBERS 43 



of shoots with three joints, struck in bottom heat in 
spring. In the south the allied Tecomas, australis and 
capensis, may be grown against a wall, but are almost 
useless in the north except under glass. The first has 
flowers of a yellowish-white tinged with purple inside, 
and the second orange-scarlet blossoms. They are pro- 
pagated in the same way as the Bignonia and require 
the same treatment. 

There are several very desirable climbers in this class 
which generally require protection in winter, but which 
ought to be tried in all mild gardens. Araujia or 
Schubertia grandiflora is a' pretty climber succeeding 
in sheltered situations and having clusters of pretty, 
sweet-scented flowers. It is propagated by seeds sown 
in spring or by cuttings of half-ripe shoots inserted in 
sandy soil in bottom heat, and likes a light soil with a 
little peat. A sericifera, often known as Physianthus 
albens, is a little hardier. Cocculus carolinus and C. 
laurifolius are two climbing plants which require a little 
protection also, but are hardly worth a good place with 
their greenish flowers. They are of twining habit, are 
propagated in the same way as the Araujia, and prefer a 
similar soil. Holbcellia latifolia, which has sweet-scented 
purple or greenish flowers, also needs some winter pro- 
tection except in warm places. It is propagated in an 
identical way and grows in a light, rather dry soil. 
Stauntonia hexaphylla, an allied plant with fragrant 
white flowers in April, is hardier than the Holboellia, 
and is propagated in the same manner ; the requisite 
pruning is performed in autumn by cutting back the 
long shoots and leaving only those desired to flower 
the following spring. 

Lardizabala biternata, with drooping racemes of purple 
flowers, is attractive in the south only in the open, 
requiring a greenhouse in the north. It should have 
the same propagating treatment as the preceding plant, 



44 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



and likes loam, sand and peat. Mitraria coccinea has 
handsome scarlet flowers and appears to be hardier than 
is generally supposed, even in the north near the sea. 
It flowers from May onward, likes a peaty and sandy 
soil, and is propagated by division in spring, or by 
cuttings any time before autumn, struck under a glass. 
It thrives better near the sea than elsewhere. Eccre- 
mocarpus scaber, which is referred to among the annual 
climbers, is really a perennial, and in very mild localities 
remains evergreen. Vitis striata, frequently called 
Ampelopsis sempervirens, is a pleasing evergreen climb- 
ing plant, reputedly hardy, but the writer's experience 
with it is that a hardy winter may prove fatal. It is 
propagated by cuttings under a hand-light or bell-glass 
and grows in any common soil. Billardiera longifolia 
is also a little tender, but is rather pretty with its 
greenish flowers, followed by blue berries. It may be 
propagated by seeds or cuttings. 




ECCREMOCARPUS SCABER 

{Photo by J. L. Richmond) 



CHAPTER VI 



HARDY WALL SHRUBS 

Ceanothuses — Forsythias — Escallonias — Magnolias — Kerrias — 
Corokias — Elaeagnuses — Cytisuses — Fabiana — Colletia — Abelias 
— Asimina — Azara — Berberises — Drimys — Buddleia — Cardiandra 
— Carpentaria — Caryopteris — Chimonanthus — Choisya — Cistuses 
— Clerodendrons — Cornuses — Corylopsis. 

There are many shrubs which are either so decorative 
or come to greater perfection on walls or treated as 
climbers against trellises and on the pillars of pergolas, 
that they must have a due amount of attention here. 
For low walls one of the most attractive genera is the 
Ceanothus, which gives us a great many species, varie- 
ties and hybrids. Among these there is hardly one 
which will not repay the little care it requires, and 
which will not by its beauty make the cultivator con- 
gratulate himself upon giving it the needed space. 
The greater number of the forms have blue or 
bluish flowers, but there are some with white 
blooms. It is when we come among some of the 
hybrids or varieties which approach red in their colour- 
ing that we seem to enter the least hardy section, but 
we may take it that the varieties of azureus are hardy 
in most places, while americanus, the New Jersey Tea, 
is even hardier, with its bluish or white flowers. They 
all like a rather light soil, though not fastidious in this 
respect, and good drainage. They are propagated by 
layers or by autumn-struck cuttings in a frame in light 
soil. They require to be neatly fastened to a wall, and 

47 



48 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



may be thinned out when they become too crowded. 
There are so many varieties that it is impossible to 
name more than a few, but the list in the tables at the 
end will supply the names of a good selection. One, 
however, which ought not to be omitted, though it is 
not one of the newest, is Gloire de Versailles, a variety 
of C. azureus, which has charming pale blue flowers in 
dense thyrses. The French raisers, such as M. Lemoine, 
have given us quite an embarrassing choice, but among 
these we may select for mention the double-flowered 
hybrid, flore albo pleno, and the rosy-violet Palmyre. 
C. dentatus may also be named as a good hardy species 
with small clusters of blue flowers. 

As wall shrubs the Forsythias, which are deciduous, 
and flower before the appearance of the leaves, are 
exceedingly ornamental. They should have a rather 
sheltered place, because of their early blooming, 
although perfectly hardy. They grow in common 
soil, and when on a wall should be trained so 
that the main branches are fastened to it. The other 
shoots can then be spurred back, or if preferred, and 
the more elegant way, allowed to grow a good length, 
when they will make a fine effect with their long sprays 
of golden bells. "Golden Bell" is the appropriate 
popular name for the Forsythia. Viridissima and sus- 
pensa are the two most commonly cultivated, but I 
prefer intermedia, a hybrid form. They make fine 
trellis plants also, and look remarkably attractive with 
a dark background, such as Ivy. 

The Escallonias are also fine wall shrubs, although 
one of the finest, macrantha, is too tender for many 
inland gardens and thrives best near the sea. Its fine 
crimson flowers are very attractive along with the 
glossy evergreen foliage, which it shares with the 
others of the genus. Philippiana seems to be con- 
siderably hardier, and its white flowers are appreciated. 



HARDY WALL SHRUBS 



Others will be found in the table of plants at the end. 
All are desirable, and require a light soil, and are pro- 
pagated by layers, suckers, or by cuttings, struck under 
glass. They should be thinned out and kept trimmed 
to prevent them from growing rough. 

The wall is the proper place in colder districts for 
the greater number of the gloriously beautiful Magnolias, 
especially of the evergreen species, which want its 
protection from wintry winds. Of course grandiflora, 
with its several varieties, grows to a great size, and 
thus needs plenty of room, but it is so fine as a wall- 
plant that those who have space and cannot grow it in 
the open may well give it a station on a tall building. 
The dwarfer glauca, also with white flowers, requires 
a smaller space, as its full height is about fifteen 
or sixteen feet. All the deciduous species such as 
conspicua, the Yulan, can be trained to a wall also, 
and this is a desirable plan for places where cold 
winds often prevail in spring. M. conspicua soulan- 
geana is a pretty form of that well-known species, 
with purple-tinted blooms. The Magnolias like a good 
soil, but must have ample drainage. A favourite old 
wall plant is the deciduous Kerria japonica, whose 
double variety is one of the easiest of deciduous wall 
shrubs to grow, and which will give its double yellow 
flowers as freely in a shady wall as on a sunny one. If 
neatly trained it requires little attention, and will thrive 
in ordinary soil. It is propagated by layers, cuttings, or 
division. This yellow-flowered shrub reminds us by its 
colour of two antipodean plants, Corokia buddleoides 
and C. Cotoneaster, though the flowers of the former 
are in panicles, and both are evergreen in their habit. 
They are a little tender, and are increased by layers or 
by cuttings in a frame in autumn. The first is taller 
than the second, which is a low shrub, the other 
growing to ten feet or more in height. A class of 

D 



5o THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



shrubs but little grown on walls, but which look 
remarkably handsome in such a position with their fine 
evergreen or deciduous leaves, are the Elaeagnuses, the 
Oleasters or Wild Olives. Argentea, glabra, with its 
variegated forms, longipes, and pungens, with its 
varieties, are all pretty on a wall, their beauty being 
usually heightened by their coloured fruits. They are 
raised from seeds, or propagated by cuttings or layers, 
and like a dryish, warm soil. The Cytisuses, or Brooms, 
give us some pretty shrubs which may be trained to a 
wall if desired, though in the opinion of the writer they 
are most charming in a bush form. Praecox, albus, and 
Scoparius andreanus, are among the best for this 
purpose. They should be so fastened to the wall that 
their long thin branches will hang out gracefully from 
it, and ought to be well cut in immediately after 
flowering is over. 

Fabiana imbricata is a very ornamental Heath-like 
shrub of moderate height (about four feet) and suitable 
for a low wall, though it has little chance of surviving 
except in favoured places unless it has such shelter. At 
least as far north as Edinburgh it may thus be 
cultivated with a mat before it in hard frosts. It is 
quite a charming thing with its white flowers, and 
thrives best in a peaty soil, being propagated by cuttings 
under a glass in summer. A singular-looking wall-plant 
named Colletia spinosa is little seen, although its 
curious and dangerous-looking awl-shaped spines make 
it interesting to all who see the plant. It and its allied 
species, C. cruciata, which is scarcely so hardy, can be 
cultivated in loamy soil and propagated by cuttings. 
For low walls there may be used the pretty Abelias 
chinensis and triflora, though the latter may require 
some shelter in winter. The former, which is deciduous, 
is often known in gardens as A. rupestris, and has 
pink flowers 5 while triflora, which is evergreen, has 



HARDY WALL SHRUBS 



pale yellow, pink-tinted flowers. They like a pro- 
portion of peat, and are propagated by layers, and also 
by cuttings under a glass. Asimina triloba is another 
shrub suitable for training on a wall, and grows to 
about ten feet high. It is generally deciduous and has 
purplish flowers, with some yellow towards the centre 
of the blossoms. It is best propagated by layers, and 
ought to have some peat or leaf-soil added to the loam. 
Azara microphylla is a remarkably neat wall shrub, with 
small evergreen leaves and greenish flowers of no 
importance, succeeded by pretty little orange berries. 
It is one of the prettiest small-leaved evergreens we 
have. Integrifolia, Gilliesii, and dentata may prove 
equally hardy, but have not been so well tested. 

Among the Berberises, or Barberries, there are a 
number of species which are ornamental on low or 
medium-sized walls, though so many of them do well 
as bushes that there is less need to make use of them 
in this way. B. nepalensis, or Mahonia nepalensis, is 
very suitable, particularly because it really requires 
such shelter in the north. The others need hardly be 
named here, and this, like the rest of the Berberises, 
is propagated by suckers, layers, cuttings, or seeds. 
B. nepalensis has yellow flowers, and large, handsome 
leaves. With a little shelter, even pretty far north, 
the pretty Drimys Winteri, which is evergreen, and 
has milky-white blossoms, may be grown against a 
wall, and will cover a considerable space, but should 
be kept well cut back to induce flowering, and is apt 
to become a little untidy in its growth if neglected for 
a time. Its sweet flowers are about an inch in diameter. 
It prefers some peat and sand, and is grown from 
cuttings of the half-ripe shoots in a cold frame, kept 
close for a time. The pretty Buddleia globosa, the 
Orange Ball, is a shrub which is always admired with 
its balls of orange flowers. It is usually grown on 



52 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



walls, though it is more ornamental as a bush where 
the climate is mild enough for this, as it blooms less 
freely if cut in than when allowed some room to extend 
its growth. In some places, too, it is even hardier as 
a bush than on a wall exposed to the morning sun. 
It is propagated by cuttings in sandy soil, rooted in a 
cold frame from which frost is kept from the time they 
are put in in autumn until spring. The cuttings ought 
to be of ripe wood. Lindleyana, which has reddish 
flowers in spikes, appears to be as hardy, though not 
usually so considered. Those who have warm gardens 
in the south may try on a low wall the evergreen 
Japanese shrub Cardiandra alternifolia, with white and 
lilac flowers. It is a low-grower, and is propagated by 
cuttings. 

The exquisite Carpenteria californica is a shrub 
which is only slowly making its way into our gardens, 
owing to the doubt felt as to its hardiness. It is much 
hardier than is generally supposed if taken care of until 
it is of a fair size, but should have a sheltered wall 
and light, sandy soil. It has ornamental leaves and 
beautiful white flowers. The best method of pro- 
pagation is by layering. For covering the base of 
a wall in places where it does not flower well in 
the open, the pretty Caryopteris Mastacanthus, the 
Moustache Bush, may be cultivated for the sake of its 
violet flowers. There is also a white variety, albus. 
This shrub is increased by seeds, cuttings or division. 
It is deciduous. 

For its winter-blooming and for the fragrance of its 
aromatic-scented flowers, Chimonanthus fragrans, the 
Winter-Sweet, is to be desired by those who can 
give it a south or south-west wall. The flowers are 
yellowish-white, purplish inside, and appear in December 
or January. The form called grandiflorus is the better 
of the two in cultivation. They require to be well cut 



HARDY WALL SHRUBS 53 



back after blooming as the flowers come on the wood of 
the previous year. Though it can be propagated from 
seeds or cuttings, layering is the best method of increase. 

Choisya ternata is one of the most beautiful of all 
white-flowered evergreen shrubs, and though the writer 
prefers it in bush form, he is forced to confess that 
it must be grown on a wall to induce it to grow properly 
in all colder gardens and districts. It has ornamental 
evergreen leaves and charming white, fragrant flowers. 
It prefers a soil in which there is a liberal admixture 
of peat and sand, a sunny exposure, and little pruning, 
except to keep it in bounds. It can be increased by 
ripened cuttings, struck in light soil under glass in 
summer or spring. 

The Cistuses, or Rock Roses, are among the most 
charming of our summer-flowering shrubs, though their 
value is diminished by the fugaciousness of the blooms 
of the greater number of the species and the tenderness 
of many. Thev are frequently destroyed by late frosts, 
just at the time when we have begun to congratulate 
ourselves that summer is near and that all danger is 
over. It is thus desirable to keep young plants, which 
are easily raised from cuttings or seeds, in a frame as a 
reserve in case of such losses. There is much confusion 
in the nomenclature, and one must thus adopt the usual 
garden names in this case, as authorities differ greatly. 

Almost any may be cultivated on south or west walls, 
but I shall only name a few of the taller species, which 
are more suitable for covering a little larger space than 
the others. Ladaniferus, the Gum Cistus, is a fine 
species with white flowers, and the variety maculatus 
has a dark blood-red spot at the base of its white 
petals. Latifolius and laurifolius have a yellowish spot 
at the base of each of their white petals. The latter 
is one of the hardiest, and the writer has a large plant 
only sheltered from the north by a hedge, but other- 



54 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



wise in the open, which is upwards of six feet high 
in a bush form. Monspeliensis, its variety florentinus, 
and oblongifolius, have white flowers. Villosus is one 
of the tallest of the purple-flowered species. There 
are several others, but those named are among the 
most suitable for our purpose. If covered with a mat 
in winter, as may be necessary sometimes, it should 
be removed on mild days. Clerodendron foetidum and 
C. trichotomum are pretty shrubs, hardy enough in the 
open in warm places, but flowering better if trained to 
a wall. The first has corymbs of lilac-rose blossoms, 
and the second loose cymes of red and white flowers. 
They need to be cut rather hard back after flowering. 
Propagation is effected by cuttings taken after flowering 
at the same time, by means of cuttings of the side 
shoots three inches or more in length, struck in bottom 
heat under glass. It seems scarcely necessary to do 
more than suggest some of the Cornuses or Dogwoods 
for wall-shrubs, as they generally do so well in the 
open. The value, however, of the shrubs known in 
gardens as Benthamia fragifera and B. japonica but 
respectively called by botanists Cornus capitata and 
C. Kousa, may be pointed out. These Strawberry 
Trees are ornamental on a wall, which they generally 
require in gardens, the first having heads of large 
white flowers, followed by reddish fruit. The second 
has beautiful yellowish-red blooms. They are best 
propagated by layering or by seeds. The Corylopsis 
makes a pretty early-flowering shrub, with its droop- 
ing racemes of pale, or greenish, yellow flowers, which 
are delicately scented. The branches are leafless at 
the flowering season, however. The best species are 
probably spicata and pauciflora, which resemble each 
other a good deal. They are propagated by layers 
or cuttings. 



CHAPTER VII 



HARDY WALL SHRUBS (continued) 

Cotoneaster — Embothrium — Eucryphias — Euonymus — Fuchsias — 
Fremontia — Garrya — Gordonia — Indigofera — Lespedeza — Lippia 
— Myrtles — Olearias — Philadelphuses — Plagianthus — Ozothamnus 
— Prunuses — Punica — Cydonia or Pyrus — Raphiolepis — Ribes 
— Rosemary — Solanums — Stuartias — Vitex — Viburnums — Vinea 
— Aristotelia — Desfontainea — Enkianthus — Phillyrea — Photinia. 

The old Cotoneaster microphylla, one of the best of the 
genus for a wall, is valuable on account of its evergreen 
foliage, white flowers and scarlet berries. Its adapta- 
bility to training and trimming, and its rapid growth 
constitute it a valuable plant of its kind. Simonsii 
should not be forgotten, and acuminata, frigida and 
nummularia may also be named, the three last named 
being only sub-evergreen. 

Southern gardeners are favoured in being able to grow 
in the open the glorious Embothrium coccineum, with 
its long, scarlet, drooping flowers and its large, entire, 
evergreen leaves. It is best suited for a low wall, and 
is propagated by cuttings of young shoots or half-ripe 
wood in peat and sand under a glass in bottom heat. 
The Embothrium likes peat and sand in the soil in 
which it is grown. Two of the Eucryphias, which are 
beautiful Rosaceous shrubs, are fairly hardy on walls, 
and like a south wall and a border of loam with some 
peat and sand. That best known is pinnatifida, with 
large white flowers, and evergreen pinnate leaves. The 
other is cordifolia, also with white blooms, but with 

55 



56 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



rather oblong leaves, which are also retained during 
winter. They are propagated by layers or by cuttings 
of young wood under a glass in sand. They will both 
cover a good space in course of time. 

The Euonymus is a good wall shrub, and its fresh 
foliage is appreciated on many walls, though the best 
species for the purpose, E. japonicus, is only half-hardy 
in some parts in the north. By the sea, however, it is 
hardy, though it is seldom seen reaching its maximum 
height of about twenty feet. This is an evergreen 
shrub, whose numerous variegated forms are held in 
more esteem than the typical form. The flowers are 
white and small. Of the variegated forms of japonicus, 
aureo-marginatis, with a yellow edge to the leaf, albo- 
marginatis, which has a white margin, latifolius aureus, 
with broad leaves, and Golden Gem are among the 
best 5 but as they sometimes show green-leaved branches, 
these should be kept in check or they may overpower 
the others. This Euonymus is easily propagated by 
cuttings under a hand-light or glass. It does well on 
a shady wall. 

In mild neighbourhoods and by the sea some of the 
hardier Fuchsias may be cultivated on walls, though 
they are so often cut down to the ground in severe 
winters that their usefulness for this purpose is greatly 
reduced, except in the south of England or Ireland 
or by the sea. They are easily increased by cuttings, 
and among the best for this purpose are the old 
Riccartoni, elegans, coccinea, and the newer hybrids of 
the type of Telegraphe. 

Fremontia californica is one of the most beautiful of 
our yellow-flowered wall shrubs, and is delightful when 
in flower, with its two-inch flowers and ornamental 
leaves. It likes a good soil, but is not so particular as 
to aspect as some shrubs, and may be given a north or 
north-west wall. In April and May it is very pleasing 



HARDY WALL SHRUBS 57 



indeed. It is suitable for covering a space of from six 
to ten feet in height. The Fremontia is propagated by 
seeds sown in spring under glass, or by cuttings under 
glass at the same time. The Garrya is best appreciated 
because of its pretty, catkin-like, drooping racemes of 
flowers in early spring. These are greenish or yellowish 
and the plants are unisexual, he. the male and female 
flowers are on separate plants. G. elliptica is the one 
most readily procurable and the best known in gardens. 
It is propagated by cuttings, layers, or by seeds, the 
first being struck in a shady place under glass in early 
autumn. G. elliptica is hardier than is generally sup- 
posed and does well as a bush in some localities. Prune 
as soon as the flowering is over, removing the exhausted 
growths and shortening long breast-wood. 

In Gordonia Lasianthus and Indigofera gerardiana 
we have two hardy shrubs of different characters which 
are but little met with in private gardens. The former 
has large white flowers, about four inches across in late 
summer and early autumn, and oblong, rather leathery 
leaves. It likes a moist, peaty soil, and is propagated 
by layers. The Indigofera is one of the hardiest of the 
Indigos, and has racemes of a considerable number of 
pale red flowers, of the Pea shape characteristic of the 
Leguminosse. It flowers in summer, and is rather a low 
grower. It flowers best on well-ripened wood, and the 
growths should be cut back in autumn. Propagation is 
performed by sowing seeds, or by striking cuttings of 
half-ripe shoots under a glass in gentle bottom heat. A 
rather peaty soil is preferred. On a wall, Lespedeza 
bicolor, often cultivated as Desmodium penduliflorum, 
looks well with its panicles of drooping rosy-purple 
flowers. It is a good plant for a low wall or trellis, 
and may be grown from seeds or by means of cuttings 
in spring or summer under a glass. It prefers a peaty 
soil. 



5 8 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Lippia citriodora, known as Aloysia citriodora or 
Verbena triphylla to many gardeners, is hardy only on a 
wall, and even thus protected is too tender for cold 
places. Its popular name of the Sweet Verbena gives 
an idea both of the character of its whitish flowers and 
of the fragrance of the plant, best observed when the 
leaves are bruised. In the favoured south-west of 
England and in some other congenial districts some of 
the Myrtles may be cultivated against a wall, where 
their beauty and sweetness are appreciated. Myrtus 
communis, the common Myrtle, is charming in such 
places with its white flowers. There are a good 
many varieties in cultivation, all being propagated by 
cuttings of partially ripe wood under a glass. M. 
Ugni, perhaps better known as Eugenia Ugni, is also 
a pretty shrub, with white flowers succeeded by 
pleasing, pleasantly flavoured red or black berries. It is 
hardy in similar positions and places as suits M. com- 
munis. Upon the whole, the wall is the best place for 
the charming Olearias in many places. The prettiest of 
those which need such protection is O. stellulata, 
covered with a profusion of white, Daisy-like blooms. 
It has greyish foliage. O. Haastii is hardier and is a 
handsome species, which looks well against a wall or in 
the open. The olearias like a rather light soil, and are 
easily propagated by cuttings in spring or summer, taken 
with a heel. 

For growing against a wall some of the Philadelphuses, 
the Mock Oranges or Syringas, are very effective with 
their pretty flowers. A list of the taller-growing 
species appears in the tables, but it may be said that P. 
grandiflorus is one of the most suitable. These flower 
on the wood of the previous year, so that this should be 
well cut away after blooming and the young shoots laid 
in. They are propagated by layers, suckers, or by 
cuttings of the young growths under a glass. The 



HARDY WALL SHRUBS 59 



Plagianthus is not one of the most desirable wall shrubs 
where free-blooming is a recommendation, though its 
leaves are ornamental. The species are all a little 
tender, but P. betulinus is hardy on a sunny wall as far 
north as Edinburgh. It is one of the best of this genus, 
which have all white flowers, generally small. They 
can be raised from imported seeds. 

One of the most elegant of all wall shrubs though, 
unfortunately, too tender for most northern gardens, is 
Ozothamnus rosmarinifolius, a beautiful thing on the 
wall, while the flowers if cut on the long branches are 
very beautiful as winter decorations in the house. This 
is owing to their " everlasting " character, for the shrub 
belongs really, according to some, to the Helichrysums. 
They are white, and the small leaves are very pleasing. 
It should have a sunny wall, loamy soil, and is increased 
by cuttings of the half-ripened shoots in summer. 

Among the Prunuses, which include botanically the 
Almonds, Peaches, Plums, Cherries, and a few other 
plants, there is a wealth of choice, although, of course, 
many are even more suitable for the open than for the 
wall. It must be remarked that P. triloba, the lovely, 
semi-double pink-flowered species, ought always to be 
cultivated on a wall when in the open, because of the 
protection thus afforded to it. This may also be said of 
P. davidiana and its pinkish form, one of the most 
precious of the early flowering shrubs we have. Even 
the common fruiting Peaches are so delightful when in 
bloom that a sunny wall covered by them looks charm- 
ing indeed. For ornamental purposes, however, a less 
formal method of training than that adopted for the 
sake of the fruit is to be preferred, and this is accom- 
plished by only training the principal branches to the 
wall and permitting the others to extend from it. After 
the flower is over these may be cut back to a couple of 
eyes of the leading branches on the wall. 



6o THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



The Pomegranate is so well known by repute that it 
is surprising to meet so seldom with the plant which 
yields the fruit known by that name. This is Punica 
Granatum, a pretty, hardy tree of deciduous habit, of 
which there are a number of varieties with flowers 
varying from red to white, and one or two double 
varieties. It seldom fruits with us, and to induce it to 
bloom it should have a warm wall. It requires a good 
loam, and is increased by seeds, layers, grafting the 
varieties on the common form, and suckers. 

Favourite plants for walls and trellises are always the 
Japanese Quinces, Pyrus, or Cydonia, japonica, the old 
deep scarlet form being oftener met with than the 
many other pretty varieties, of which some of the best 
are named in the table of Wall Shrubs. They grow in 
any common soil, and are propagated by layers, suckers, 
grafting, or cuttings. Pyrus Maulei and its variety 
superba, are only suitable for low walls or trellises, and, 
with several of the other Pyruses, are very ornamental 
on these. 

The Indian Hawthorns, Raphiolepis, are well repre- 
sented by the Japanese species, japonica integerrima, 
which should have a little protection in winter. It is 
evergreen and has fragrant white flowers. 

Not many of our Ribes or flowering Currants are 
worthy of the limited amount of wall space generally 
at command, but one, at least, is precious enough for 
this consideration. This is R. speciosus, which has 
beautiful Fuchsia-like scarlet flowers. 

The Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis, and its varie- 
gated variety, variegatus, are worth growing on a low, 
sunny wall on dry soil, for their beauty as well as for 
their fragrance and the many traditions which cluster 
round the shrub. 

The Solanums give us a few handsome wall shrubs 
of the highest worth. S, crispum, which has beautiful 



HARDY WALL SHRUBS 61 



blue flowers, is the prettiest of these, and a large plant 
in full bloom is worth going a long way to see. There 
is a variety called angustifolium, which differs slightly. 
These are fairly hardy. S. jasminoides, with white 
flowers, makes a good companion, but is more tender. 
They grow in common soil, and are propagated by 
cuttings struck under a glass. In favoured gardens 
the Stuartias are cultivated with success on warm walls, 
where the wood can be properly ripened. They prefer 
a little peat in the soil, and are increased by layering, 
and also by cuttings of ripe wood under a glass in 
sandy soil. 

S. pentagyna, creamy-white, and S. virginica, white, 
are the most generally grown, but S. pseudo-Camellia, 
or Grandiflora, is also to be valued for its creamy-white 
flowers. Vitex Agnus-castus, the Chaste Tree, or 
Monk's Pepper, which has pale lilac flowers, should 
have a wall except in the south, and is referred to for 
the sake of some who might wish to grow this old 
plant in the open. The Viburnums of tall habit make 
very ornamental wall shrubs and can be cultivated in 
practically any good soil. They are propagated by 
cuttings of the partially ripened growths in shade 
under a hand-light or by layers. The pretty blue- 
flowered Vinca major, a tall Periwinkle, looks well 
on a low trellis, fence, or wall. 

Aristotelia Macqui is a neat shrub of moderate height 
which has green flowers, followed by black berries. 
The variegated form is a neat shrub and their evergreen 
habit is an advantage for some positions. A. Macqui 
is propagated by layers or cuttings and does well in 
any common soil. Desfontainea spinosa is prized for 
its evergreen leaves and its tubular scarlet and yellow 
flowers. It prefers some peat in the soil and is raised 
from cuttings in heat under a glass. Of the Enkian- 
thuses, which are neat wall shrubs, campanulatus and 



62 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



japonicus are fairly hardy on walls. Loam and peat 
make a good compost for them and they are propagated 
by cuttings in spring — half-ripened wood being used. 
The Phillyreas and Photinia are ornamental evergreens, 
which are rather tender and like a rather light loam. 
Both are increased by cuttings or by grafting ; the 
former on the Privet, and the other on the common 
Quince. 




PASSION FLOWER 

{Photo by Henry Irving) 



CHAPTER VIII 



CLIMBERS UNDER GLASS 

Cultural Hints — Abutilons — AUamandas — Bignonias — Bougainvilleas — 
Clerodendrons — Lapagerias — Ipomoeas — Batatus — Convolvulus — 
Passifloras — Tacsonias — Thombergias — Stephanotis — Tecomas — 
Aganosmas — Akebia — Bomareas — Alstroemeria — Aristolochias — 
Amphilophiums — Antigonons — Gloriosas — Asparaguses — Cana- 
valias — Dolichos — Miiletia — Oxypetalum — Petrea — Hidalgoa 
Wercklei. 

While the value of climbers under glass is recognised 
in most large establishments, where the structures are 
lofty and afford space enough for their development and 
display, there is room for their increased cultivation in 
the conservatories, greenhouses and stoves of smaller 
gardens, which often stand in need of additional 
embellishment, although in these smaller buildings there 
is more danger of the climbers overshadowing the plants 
beneath, and, if neglected, injuring their growth and 
beauty. Yet the climber adds so much to the attractions 
of the conservatory or greenhouse that one or more 
plants of its habit ought to be grown, even if the more 
luxuriant growers have to be excluded. Some of the 
more slender-growing species are charming draping a 
back wall, twining up a pillar, or hanging gracefully 
from the rafters above. In the chapter on the soil and 
management of climbing plants a general idea is given 
of the cultivation and treatment required for these plants 
when grown under glass, but one would again impress 
upon the reader the necessity of the utmost cleanliness, 
proper ventilation, and the prompt destruction of any 

E 6 5 



66 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



pests which may make their appearance, or the result 
will be disappointment to the owner and serious injury 
to all the plants in the house. Aphides, Scale, Mealy 
Bug, Mildew, and all other enemies must be destroyed 
at their first appearance. Shading and ventilation must 
also be carefully attended to or troubles will inevitably 
follow. It must be remembered that plants under glass 
require more care and are more liable to suffer from 
neglect than those which are cultivated in the open air. 

The need of non-climbing plants for covering walls is 
not so great in the conservatory as outside, where there 
is usually more space to cover, and it is unnecessary to 
devote a special chapter to these, but a few are inci- 
dentally mentioned among the climbers proper, though 
these far from exhaust the suitable plants for the 
purpose. 

The Abutilons are very desirable when grown as 
climbers in the conservatory, as they may be cultivated 
in pots, as well as planted out, and are not only pretty 
for covering pillars or for training up the rafters, but 
also for the supply of cut flowers. They should have a 
good, turfy loam, plenty of drainage, and some peat and 
sand in the compost. Unless well supplied with water 
while growing they become stunted and unhealthy, and 
too much peat produces excessive leaf-growth. They 
do not look well when stiffly tied in, but the branches 
should be allowed to hang from the rafters or project 
from the pillars. The Abutilons may be raised from 
seeds, sown in pots or pans in light soil in spring and 
placed in a temperature of 65 degrees or a little higher. 
Cuttings strike easily in a similar temperature, especially 
in spring or early autumn. They may have a similar 
soil to the old plants but with a little more sand and 
some leaf-soil. The bell-shaped blooms of all are 
attractive, and a considerable number of the species and 
varieties are strong enough to come under the category 



CLIMBERS UNDER GLASS 67 



of climbing plants. A selection of these will be found 
in the table at the end of the work. Darwini, 
Megapoticum, pulchellum, and venosum are among the 
best of the species for climbing, though some of the 
hybrid varieties are of high value. 

The Allamanda is one of the prettiest of evergreen 
stove climbers, its numerous panicles of flowers and fine 
leaves making a good effect when it is trained to a trellis. 
On wires a little beneath the glass and with the growths 
allowed to assume an informal style the Allamandas are 
very pleasing, and do well in pots unless required to 
cover a large space. 

The best method of propagation is by cuttings, struck 
in bottom heat at almost any season. The tops of the 
shoots strike readily in leaf-soil or peat and sand, and 
after rooting the plants may be grown on, pinching in as 
required to form the necessary shoots for the purpose 
desired. Fibrous loam, with about one-fourth of sharp 
sand, and a little charcoal and decayed cow manure, will 
answer for the plants, which need a temperature of not 
less than 55 degrees. Annual repotting is advantageous, 
and they ought to be pruned to within one or two joints 
of the old wood in the beginning of the year before 
starting into growth. Cathartica and grandiflora are 
suitable for trellises or roofs 5 while Chelsoni and 
Schottii answer for roofs, though Schottii does not 
flower so well as some of the others. 

Bignonias are of the greatest value for large con- 
servatories, and should be planted in a prepared border of 
fibry loam, peat and leaf-soil with some sand, but having 
their root room rather restricted. Some can be grown 
from seeds, but the general way of propagation is by 
root cuttings about an inch long, layers, cuttings of 
stout growths, of two or three joints, in bottom heat 
under glass in spring, wiping the bell-glasses dry every 
morning until the plants are rooted, when they should 



68 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



be gradually exposed to the air of the house. They 
will generally do well in the stove or greenhouse, and 
are effective climbers with their large, fine flowers on 
the roof, wall, pillar or trellis. They are best on a 
single stem until of some height. 

Indispensable, also, where climbers are much grown 
under glass, are the Bougainvilleas, whose showy 
appearance is in keeping with the most effective of 
the other occupants of the conservatory or stove. They 
dislike being confined to a limited space, and are best 
when allowed to make a free and natural-looking growth 
on the roof or wall. They are best planted out in a 
well-drained border in the house filled with a compost 
composed of about one part of leaf-mould, with three 
of sound, turfy loam, and a good admixture of sharp 
sand. The Bougainvilleas are propagated by cuttings 
of half-ripe wood with a heel, taken off in March, in a 
good bottom heat, with a glass over them. They are 
usually rested in winter by restricting the water supply. 
Pruning is done in January or February, cutting them 
back in the same way as the Grape Vine, cutting out 
at the same time any weak or superfluous growths. 
Speciosa, spectabilis and glabra are the best, the last 
being generally preferred for pots. 

Clerodendrons are also favourite climbers for the stove 
or greenhouse, and those of climbing habit always rank 
high in the estimation of those who care for such plants. 
Turfy loam, with an equal proportion of peat, and a 
small quantity of leaf-soil, charcoal and sand will make 
a good compost. When planted out the supply of water 
should be reduced in winter and the temperature of the 
stove kept as low as compatible with the needs of other 
plants, but not less than sixty degrees. They should 
be cut back after flowering, and at this season propaga- 
tion may be effected by taking cuttings of the ripe 
shoots and striking them under a bell-glass in light soil. 



CLIMBERS UNDER CLASS 69 



Young shoots about eight inches long strike well in 
summer. Thomsons is the most cultivated, and makes 
a brilliant effect with its crimson and white flowers, but 
splendens is another of great beauty with its bright 
scarlet blooms. The variety of this named Balfouri is 
a favourite for trellis training. 

The Lapageria is another acceptable climber, and its 
slender habit and fine flowers make it very suitable for 
a house in which the reduction of much light is un- 
desirable, or where there is little space. It is best 
propagated by layers, pegged down and covered with 
soil, and likes a large proportion of fibrous peat— about 
three parts — with one of loam, and about a sixth sand 
and a little charcoal. Raising from- seeds is largely 
resorted to, though the other method is necessary to 
secure a good variety — an important thing with the 
Lapageria. The root-space should be confined to pre- 
vent the appearance of growths in undesirable places, 
but otherwise the Lapageria should have plenty of room. 
It should have cool treatment with just sufficient heat to 
exclude the frost. 

There are many varieties, but alba may well be grown 
along with the typical rosea or its best varieties. 

The Ipomoeas, with which is classed the Batatus, are 
desirable twining or climbing plants, and they are 
generally graceful in a glass structure. They are 
attractive hanging from the rafters of the stove or 
conservatory, and also on trellises and pillars in the 
latter, where their beautiful flowers are seen to most 
advantage. They are not difficult to grow, and the 
annuals are raised from seeds, sown in pots, with from 
two to three seeds in each pot ; the perennials being 
propagated by means of layers or side-shoots, struck in 
bottom heat. Few can see such fine species as Ipomoea 
Learii, with its glorious blue flowers, or the winter- 
blooming Horsfalliae, with its bright rosy flowers, 



yo THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



without admiration. The latter is rather difficult to 
propagate. 

Convolvuluses require the same treatment as the 
Ipomaeas. C. mauritanicus is generally cultivated in 
baskets. 

Where there are large houses the Passifloras, or 
Passion Flowers, ought always to be represented among 
the climbing plants cultivated. They are best suited for 
the rafters or roofs, where their free growing habit can 
be allowed some scope, and their true character dis- 
played. The flowers are very ornamental, apart from 
the fancied resemblance the parts bear to the cross — 
which has given rise to the name of "Passion Flower" 
— and several produce handsome edible fruit. They 
are best planted out in the house in a border with 
about ten inches of soil, but they may also be placed 
in large pots or tubs in good turfy loam, with a little 
sand and peat or leaf-soil, a similar compost answering 
for those planted out. They are generally propagated 
by cuttings of the young growths with a heel, and 
about six inches or so in length, put in pots of sandy 
soil under a bell-glass or in a propagating frame. The 
necessary training is effected by stopping the leading 
shoots to secure others to cover the space desired, 
thinning out superfluous growths, and by regulating 
the direction the remainder are to take. The common 
Passion Flower, P. caerulea, does well in a cold house, 
where it is too cold for it in the open, but the greater 
number of those named in the table require stove or 
greenhouse treatment. There are so many in cultiva- 
tion that only a selection can be named there. 

The allied Tacsonias, which differ little in their 
botanical characters from the Passifloras, and share with 
them the popular name of Passion Flower, are equally 
beautiful, and they give many exquisite and showy 
flowers. As they are cultivated in the same way as 



CLIMBERS UNDER GLASS 



7* 



the Passifloras, it is unnecessary to repeat the directions, 
and it will be sufficient to state that T. Van Volxemii is 
one of the best, and remarkably beautiful with its showy 
scarlet blooms and its edible fruit. 

Of a different order of beauty are the Thunbergias, 
which are pretty annual or perennial twining plants, 
some of which are more suited for trellises or low 
pillars than for the rafters or roof, though such species 
as coccinea and grandiflora are all comparatively vigorous 
growers doing best in the stove. They prefer a good 
soil, composed of loam, sand, and some thoroughly 
rotted cow dung, and afe generally raised from seeds, 
which germinate freely in a warm house. The perennial 
species are also increased by means of cuttings of the 
young growths about four inches long in a propagating 
frame or under a glass with a temperature of about 
seventy degrees. 

Stephanotis floribunda is one of the most valued of 
our stove climbers or twiners, as everyone appreciates 
its deliciously fragrant, wax-like white flowers. A good 
turfy loam is the most approved soil, though it will 
grow in peat also, and this should be placed in a bed 
prepared in the house and the plants trained to a trellis 
on the roof. It does not like too much heat, and many 
good growers prefer the intermediate house to the stove 
for its cultivation. Propagation is effected by cuttings 
of the previous year's wood of about two joints struck 
in a heat of sixty degrees, rising to seventy degrees, or 
of young shoots with a heel. 

The fine Tecomas, closely allied to the Bignonias, 
should have similar treatment to these plants. Grandi- 
flora is one of the best of the greenhouse climbing 
species, though jasminoides is also pretty. The Adeno- 
calymnas in cultivation have principally yellow flowers, 
and should be treated like the stove Bignonias, to which 
they are related. 



72 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Then the Aganosmas are showy climbers, not generally 
known, whose corymbs of flowers are pleasing when 
open. They like a stove or warm greenhouse, and are 
cultivated in good, mellow loam, with equal parts of 
leaf-soil or peat, and sand. Either of those named in 
the tables are worth growing where neat twining plants 
are desired. Akebia quinata, named also among the 
hardy climbers, is deserving of a cold greenhouse in 
colder localities, and is a pleasing twining plant without 
much brilliance. 

Requiring almost the same treatment and closely 
allied are the Bomareas and the climbing Aistrcemeria 
densiflora, both of which are tuberous-rooted twiners, 
and require hardly any protection save a glass roof over 
them, such as is yielded by an unheated greenhouse. 
They like a well-drained soil of peat, leaf-soil and 
sand, and plenty of water while in growth, but rest in 
winter. They may either be cultivated in pots or 
planted out. Propagation is by seeds, sown as soon as 
ripe in heat, or by division of the tuberous roots. B. 
Carderi and B. oligantha are among the best. 

Aristolochias are singular-flowered plants and are the 
object of much interest when in bloom, while the 
ornamental character of the foliage of almost all the 
species makes them appreciated at nearly all times. 
They do best planted out in good, rather rough loam, 
with a little sharp sand and well-rotted manure, and 
the greater number are suited for growing round a 
tall pillar or on the rafters of a large house, though 
the weaker sorts can be grown on a trellis and in pots. 
They are increased by cuttings in heat under a glass, 
A selection from among the best appears in the table. 

But few know the "West Indian stove climber called 
Amphilophium or Amphilobium paniculatum, which has 
panicles of rosy flowers, and likes a compost of loam, 
with some peat. It is grown from cuttings of the 



CLIMBERS UNDER GLASS 73 



young growths in bottom heat, with a glass over them 
in spring. The difficulty of blooming them properly 
accounts for the scarcity of the Antigonons, pretty 
stove climbers, in our gardens. They want plenty 
of light and to be planted in beds over hot-water 
pipes. Both amabile and insignis are most charming 
plants, while A. Leptopus is equally handsome with its 
rose flowers. These bulbs like to be kept dry in 
winter. They are less known than the magnificent 
Gloriosas, which are aptly named, and which are 
splendid stove climbers, with magnificent flowers in 
clusters. They have bulbous roots, and require to be 
kept dry in winter in the pots in which they are grown. 
Re-potting must be carefully done in February or 
March, using loam and peat with some sharp sand for the 
compost, and starting them into growth in small pots in 
a heat of sixty to sixty-five degrees. They like plenty 
of water and a moist atmosphere while making growth. 
They are propagated by offsets, removed carefully at 
potting time, by division of the roots, by cutting through 
the crown so as to retain a bud to each piece, or by 
seeds sown in heat at the same season. Superba is com- 
paratively cheap. 

Asparaguses are prized for their graceful foliage, and 
give a grace and lightness to the house in which they 
are grown which is yielded by few other plants of similar 
habit. They do best in a rather warm house in a good 
loam with some peat sand, and are raised readily from 
seeds or by division of the roots, or cuttings of the 
shoots in spring. Plumosus, retrofractus, decumbens, 
medeoloides and scandens are among the best of climbing 
habit. 

The genus Canavalia is almost unknown in private 
gardens, but it includes a few species of pretty twiners 
or climbers suitable for the stove or intermediate house. 
They are easily cultivated in loam and sand, and are 



74 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



propagated by seeds or by root-cuttings in sandy soil 
under glass. Ensiformis is perhaps the best of the few 
cultivated. Under the same conditions may be grown 
the Dolichos, a tall climber, belonging to the same 
genus — the Leguminosae. Lablab or lignosus, a green- 
house evergreen climber, is among the most desirable 
of the perennial species. Milletia megasperma, a fine 
evergreen climber of the habit of a Wistaria, may be 
cultivated in the same manner as the Canavalia and 
Dolichos. 

Oxypetalum caeruleum is one of the most charming 
of greenhouse or stove twiners with its pretty flowers 
changing from pale blue to lilac. It should be planted 
out in good loam, and is propagated by cuttings of the 
young shoots in bottom heat. 

In Petrea volubilis we have a pretty purple-flowered 
stove twiner of tall growth, reaching as much as twenty 
feet in height. It should be in a warm stove, in good 
soil, and is propagated by cuttings in brisk heat. 

Hidalgoa Wercklei, called the " Climbing Dahlia," is 
a recent introduction suitable for the cool house, in rich 
loam, or for planting out in summer. It is propagated 
by cuttings. 



CHAPTER IX 



CLIMBERS UNDER GLASS (continued) 

Beaumontia — Begonia — Cestrums — Kennedy as — Zichyas — Brachysemas 
— Hoyas — Physostelma — Plumbago — Senecio — Pleroma or Lasian- 
dra — Adelobotrys — Solanums — Solandras — Bauhinias — Clitorias 
— Clianthus — Daturas or Brugmansias — Hibbertias — Dipladenias — 
Cissus — Acacias — Mimosa — Semele — Grevilleas — Echites — Har- 
denbergias — Ceropegias — Pergularia — Rhodochiton — Mandevilla 
— Myrsiphyllum — Littonia — Swainsonias — Testudinaria — Tropse- 
olums — Adhatodas — Argyreias — Chorizemas — Combretum — Quis- 
qualis — Fuchsias — Pelargoniums — Ficus — Jasminums — Gompho- 
lobiums — Hoveas — Lophospermums — Luculia — Manettias — 
Sollyas — Trachelospermum — Maurandya — Berberidopsis — Cobsea 
— Holboellia — Rubus — Araujia — Asy stasia — Billardieras — Crypto- 
stegias — Randia — Piper — Smilax. 

One of the finest of stove climbers is Beaumontia 
grandiflora, of twining habit, and of fine effect with 
its corymbs of many white, dark-throated flowers. It 
ought, if possible, to be planted out in the house, and 
to be propagated by cuttings in bottom heat and under 
a glass. It likes a good loam and peat, not too fine. 
Some of the Begonias of tall habit are pretty when 
trained to pillars or trellises, and one of climbing habit 
— scandens — is nice to train against a wall or pillar. 
The white flowers are small, however. It requires no 
special treatment. 

Some of the Cestrums are ornamental plants in the 
stove or greenhouse, growing well in almost any rich 
soil of an open nature, and requiring little in the way 
of training but pinching back early in the year. They 
are propagated by cuttings in early autumn. Aurantiacum, 

75 



76 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



elegans, and Newellii, which do well in a warm green- 
house, are among the best ; and the variety of elegans 
called argentea, which has prettily variegated leaves, is 
a choice climber. C. elegans is sometimes known in 
gardens as Habrothamnus elegans. 

Kennedyas are valuable evergreen climbers for the 
greenhouse, and thrive in good loam or peat. They 
look well on the rafters and pillars, and stand a good 
deal of cutting-in, a valuable character where plants are 
grown below. The prettiest is probably prostrata 
Marryattae, generally known as K. Marryattae. Seeds 
form the easiest method of increase, and are sown in 
heat in spring or summer, though some prefer cuttings 
of side shoots with a heel struck in spring in gentle 
heat. Zichyas closely resemble the Kennedyas and 
should have the same treatment, as also do the Brachy- 
semas. The Hoyas of a climbing habit are fine plants, 
but none are more worthy of being cultivated than H. 
carnosa, the Wax Flower, whose pinkish-white flowers 
are so wax-like in their appearance. They all prefer 
an intermediate house, and like a rather peaty soil, the 
stronger ones doing best when planted out. Carnosa 
and some others are best when grown on a wall. They 
are propagated by cuttings of shoots of the previous 
year, grafting, or layers, and flower on the young wood 
and the old flower stalks. The spurs from the base of 
the foot-stalks should not be removed. Physostelma 
Wallichii requires the same cultivation, and resembles 
the Hoyas. 

A favourite plant is Plumbago capensis, a deciduous 
shrub, whose pale, charming blue flowers are so 
ornamental in the greenhouse or conservatory. It 
flowers on the young wood and should thus be cut 
well back after blooming. Cuttings of the ripe or 
nearly ripe wood in bottom heat strike readily. 

The pale-yellow Senecio macroglossus, which has 



CLIMBERS UNDER GLASS 77 



Ivy-like leaves, is a useful and distinct plant for a 
rafter, and grows in loam in a greenhouse. It is 
propagated by cuttings, which strike readily. 

Pleroma macranthum or Tibouchinia semi-decandrum 
(syn. Lasiandra macrantha) is one of our best stove or 
greenhouse climbers, preferring a rather cool stove when 
in that house, and doing well in turfy loam. ThePleromas 
are propagated by cuttings of soft shoots four inches in 
length in a warm frame. The species here named is 
best when planted out in the greenhouse border, but 
the noble variety floribundum does better in pots than 
the typical species. Allied to this is the rambling 
Adelobotrys Lindeni. Several of the Solanums do well 
for climbers for the stove or greenhouse, and most may 
be raised from seeds, but others may be increased by 
cuttings of the young growths struck in heat under a 
glass. Seaforthianum is among the most valued, but 
for cold districts crispum and jasminoides, mentioned 
among hardy climbers, may be named as worthy of a 
place under glass. All like a good loamy soil. The 
Solandras are also fine tall stove climbers of shrubby 
habit, which do. not bloom well if allowed to grow 
luxuriantly, and require to be almost deprived of water 
after they have made growth until the leaves begin to 
fall. They grow in loam and leaf-soil, and are pro- 
pagated by cuttings in heat. 

Bauhinias do not flower very well as a rule, but 
corymbosa ought to do fairly well if properly treated 
by giving it plenty of sun, and growing it in loam, peat, 
and sand, pretty firmly potted. They are raised from 
cuttings and are brilliant evergreen stove plants when in 
flower. Like many other plants of the order Legum- 
inosae, the Clitorias are ornamental plants. They are 
good stove climbers thriving in a similar soil to the. 
Bauhinias, and best raised from seeds, sown in heat in 
spring, though they can be raised from cuttings as well. 



78 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Ternatea and heterophylla are perhaps the best to grow. 
Clianthus puniceus, referred to among hardy climbers, 
another plant of the same natural order, may be 
mentioned again as a reminder of its beauty in the 
greenhouse or conservatory ; as well as the Cobaeas, 
also mentioned there. 

The shrubby Daturas, called Brugmansias in gardens, 
are fine for pillars and may be planted out in lofty 
houses or grown in pots in lower ones, and they thrive 
in a good loam. Propagation may be performed in 
spring by striking cuttings of the young growths about 
six inches in length, with a heel of the old wood 
attached. After the main branches have reached the 
desired height the side ones may be cut in close after 
flowering. 

The best of the Hibbertias for use as a greenhouse 
climber is dentata, a pretty, dark-yellow flowered species 
with flowers almost two inches across. It likes peat 
and loam with some sand, and is propagated by cuttings 
under a glass in heat. Unless the weak shoots are 
removed in time this Hibbertia is apt to become untidy. 

The Dipladenias rank among the highest of our warm 
stove twining plants, and well repay the efforts of the 
cultivator to secure their brilliant flowers by the effect 
they produce under glass. They are propagated by eyes 
or by cuttings of the young shoots, of one or two joints, 
struck in bottom heat under a bell-glass, in sand and 
peat in spring, and like a well drained border or sixteen- 
inch pot filled with fibrous peat with a good dash of 
sand. They have a fine effect either on a trellis or the 
rafters or roof of the stove. "When the flowers are 
over the current year's growth may be removed, as the 
Dipladenias flower on the new wood. Heat and frequent 
syringings are recommended by the most competent 
authorities. When grown in pots remove as much as 
possible of the old soil in October, replacing with fresh. 



CLIMBERS UNDER GLASS 79 



Botanists have generally included the genus Cissus 
with that of Vitis, but in gardens the best — that called 
Cissus discolor — is likely to be long grown under its 
former name. It is the only one of consequence, and 
is an ornamental-leaved plant of value for the trellis or 
the roof of the stove. The velvety green leaves are 
prettily marked with silver. It grows well in rather 
rough peat with some loam and sand, and is propagated 
by cuttings under a bell-glass in sand, in heat. Shade 
is essential to bring out the variegation of the leaves. 
Vitis gongyloides is one of several interesting vines which 
should be cultivated more largely in the warm house. 

Some of the taller growing Acacias are very ornamental 
for growing as climbers on pillars or rafters, and one of 
the best for this purpose is A. riceana, an elegant species 
with pale-yellow flowers, other good species being 
dealbata and grandis. They are grown from seeds, 
sown as soon as they can be obtained, and also by 
cuttings of partially ripened wood, taken off with a 
heel, in peat and sand, and struck under a bell-glass in 
summer without artificial heat. The number of species 
prevents full lists of the species suitable being named 
in the tables. Mimosa marginata may have similar 
treatment, and is valued for its pretty foliage. Another 
ornamental climber for lofty houses is Semele androgyna, 
a fine foliage plant which grows in peat, loam and sand, 
and is propagated by division. A few of the taller 
Grevilleas are also well adapted for growing on rafters and 
pillars in the conservatory or winter garden. Planted 
out they grow more vigorously than in pots, and are 
prized for their ornamental foliage and flowers. They 
are propagated by seeds or cuttings, taken off in spring 
with a heel, and struck under a bell-glass in heat, and 
prefer turfy loam, rough peat and sand. 

Among the stove twining plants in a large garden 
there may be included one or two of the genus Echites 



8o THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



—handsome plants admired for their flowers or foliage 
— which flourish well with the same treatment as that 
recommended for the Dipladenias. E. Franciscea 
sulphurea is one of the best. Hardenbergias are pretty 
Australian twiners for the greenhouse, of easy growth 
in a greenhouse and flourishing in peat and loam with 
some sand. They can be raised from seeds, sown in 
heat in spring, or by cuttings of the young shoots, 
inserted in pots covered with a bell-glass in a close 
frame. They grow more freely when planted in a 
border in the greenhouse than in pots. Comptoniana 
and monophylla are among the best, but these are so 
much alike that one only need be cultivated. 

Ceropegias are curious and interesting stove plants, 
generally of a twining habit. The flowers are wax-like 
and of singular form. They are propagated by cuttings 
of side shoots in heat, and prefer a soil composed of peat, 
sand, and leaf-mould. Gardnerii is one of the prettiest 
of the climbing or twining species. They ought to 
be rested after flowering. The fragrant Pergularia 
odoratissima requires similar soil and propagation. It 
ought to be more grown for its sweet odour. Rhodo- 
chiton volubile is a pleasing greenhouse climber, with 
red calyx and corolla, which is best cultivated in sandy 
loam, and propagated by seeds, sown in heat, or by 
cuttings of young shoots in autumn under a glass. 

For conservatories or cool greenhouses the pretty, 
white-flowered Mandevilla suaveolens flourishes in a 
well-drained border of peat or turfy loam and peat, 
with some sharp sand, but is not suitable for pots. 
It is increased by cuttings of short side shoots, struck 
in sand under a glass, or by seeds, sown in heat when 
procurable. 

For use for decorative purposes, the elegant Myrsi- 
phyllum or Medeola asparagoides, now called Asparagus 
medeoloides, which has pretty foliage, ought to find a 




VITIS GONGYLODES 
{Photo by Grreenivood Pirn) 

F 



CLIMBERS UNDER GLASS 83 



place in a warm greenhouse or stove and be trained up 
cords or wires. It does best in loam and leaf-mould, 
and is propagated by seeds, division, or cuttings in 
heat in spring. 

The admirable climbing stove or greenhouse plant, 
Littonia modesta, with fine orange-coloured bell-shaped 
flowers, is very ornamental in the greenhouse and stove 
against a pillar. It is usually cultivated like the Gloriosa, 
and does well under such conditions. A popular plant 
of climbing habit is Swainsonia coronillifolia or galegi- 
folia, which has good-sized red flowers, and elegant 
foliage. The white variety, albiflora, is a general 
favourite. It is propagated by seeds, or by cuttings 
of young growths struck in sand under a bell-glass. 
Those who wish a curious plant of climbing growth may 
procure the Elephant's Foot, Testudinaria elephantipes, 
which grows in sandy loam or peat and has a curious 
root which has given it the name of Elephant's Foot, 
from a fancied resemblance to the foot of an Elephant. 
It is difficult to flower. 

The tender Tropaeolums are capital greenhouse or 
stove plants, and many do not realise the value of some 
of the varieties of T. lobbianum for winter bloom when 
so cultivated in a warm house, and trained up a trellis. 
Then there is the beautiful T. azureum, with azure 
flowers, and T. tricolorum, which both make fine pot- 
plants for training to small trellises. These have 
tuberous roots and should be kept cool and dry until 
growth begins in spring when they should be repotted. 
These like a good proportion of peat and sand in the 
soil. 

Adhatoda cydoniaefolia is a distinct-looking evergreen 
stove climber, which grows in good loam, and is pro- 
pagated by cuttings of the young shoots in heat in 
spring. Do not stop the shoots as the plants grow. 
The Argyreias, which are of evergreen habit and also 



8 4 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



suitable for the stove, require much space and are 
seldom cultivated. They may be grown in pots or 
planted out. 

Chorizema varium Chandlerii is a good low-growing 
climber. The Chorizemas can be grown in peat or 
loam, and are struck from cuttings of half-ripe wood 
with a heel in summer. Combretum purpureum is a 
handsome stove climber with fine sprays of flowers. 
It is increased by cuttings, rather more than half-ripe, 
struck in heat and thrives in fibry peat with sand. C. 
elegans is also desirable. The allied Ouisqualis indica 
is a pretty stove climber. 

Nowadays we seldom meet with the Fuchsias as a 
plant for the rafters and roofs of the greenhouse, but 
those who see these old favourites covering a large 
space will not readily forget the appearance they 
present, with their drooping flowers of bright colours. 
When used as climbers they should be planted out. 
Until the plants attain the required height the side 
growths ought not to be removed, although the main 
stem should be allowed to extend. When it has 
reached its proper height the side branches may be 
cut away and the top stopped so as to induce the 
plants to cover the space desired. Free - growing, 
long-flowered species and varieties are the best for this 
purpose. They will grow vigorously in any good soil. 

Where many cut flowers are wanted, the Ivy-leaved 
" Geraniums" or Pelargoniums, of long-jointed growth 
are capital plants for a wall ; flowering freely when 
planted out and giving great quantities of blooms for 
cutting. Some of the strong growing Zonals can also 
be trained on a wall or on the roof for cut bloom, but 
they do not look so well as the Ivy-leaved varieties. 
They like a rich loam. 

For covering walls closely with fresh foliage, Ficus 
stipulata, or repens, and its variety F. s. minima may 



CLIMBERS UNDER GLASS 85 



be used with advantage in the greenhouse. These 
prefer loam, peat, and a little sand, and are propagated 
by cuttings of the side growths in a little heat at any 
season. The greenhouse and stove Jasminums are 
deservedly favourites, which like rough loam with the 
addition of well-rotted manure and some sand, and are 
propagated by cuttings of shoots of a few inches long, 
taken off with a heel, and struck in a temperature of 
about 70 degrees under a glass in sand. Sambac 11. 
pi., and Duchesse d'Orleans are among the best of the 
stove species or varieties, while grandiflorum and 
odoratissimum are good for the greenhouse. 

The Gompholobiums are pleasing evergreen plants 
for a greenhouse where the temperature does not fall 
below 40 or 45 degrees in winter, and have beautiful 
pea-shaped flowers. They like a soil of fibrous peat, 
not too rough, with a little sand, and are increased by 
cuttings of the shoots about the end of April, when a 
little firm, struck in sand and covered with a glass in an 
intermediate temperature. They must be carefully 
trained from their earliest stages, and are suitable for 
trellises. In the Hoveas we also have some pretty Pea- 
shaped climbers of evergreen habit, which are orna- 
mental on the roof or end wall of a conservatory. 
Celsii is the best, and is valued for its blue-purple 
flowers. It likes a fibrous peat or loam, with a little 
sharp sand, and is propagated by seeds sown in heat 
in February, or by cuttings of the half-ripened shoots. 
Some of the Lantanas make good wall plants if planted 
out, and one of the best for this purpose is L. Camara, 
which grows in peat and loam, and is propagated by 
cuttings. 

The Lophospermums are now included by botanists 
with the Maurandyas and are capital for the roof or 
pillars of a greenhouse and are pleasing with their pretty 
blossoms and bright colours. They are readily raised 



86 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



from seeds or from cuttings of the shoots, struck in 
spring in a heat of about 63 degrees, and kept close. 
They like a sandy peat soil, and grow pretty freely. For 
a back wall we haye in Luculia gratissima a most yaluable 
plant for the intermediate house, where its pinkish-white 
Rowers are welcome. For this purpose it ought to be 
planted out in loam, with the addition of some peat and 
sand, a little rough. Propagation is accomplished by 
means of cuttings of the young shoots, about March, in 
a night temperature of not less than 60 degrees. The 
Manettias, with their pretty tube-shaped flowers and 
slender growth, are suitable for the roof of an inter- 
mediate house, and are easily grown there or in a stoye 
in sandy peat. They are propagated by cuttings of 
young shoots in spring, struck in heat and kept moist. 
Bicolor, now called lutea-rubra, is one of the best. 

The pretty, blue-flowered, twining Sollyas are easily 
cultiyated, evergreen, greenhouse plants, which are not 
free-growing enough for the roof and are best for a 
trellis or a pillar. They are struck from cuttings of 
shoots with a heel in spring, and like a compost fibrous 
peat and some sand. They can do with more limited 
root space than many climbers. 

A plant which is deservedly prized for its fragrance 
and beauty, and which can even be grown on a wall 
in the sunny south of England or Ireland in the open, is 
Trachelospermum jasminoides, frequently known as 
Rhynchospermum, which has white flowers resembling 
those of the Jasmine. It is suitable alike for the cool 
house or for the stove, and can be cultivated in fibrous 
loam and sand. Propagate by cuttings of the young 
shoots when half-ripe about six inches long about the 
month of July, struck under a bell-glass in gentle heat. 
Maurandyas, Berberidopsis, Cobaea scandens, Holboellia 
latifolia, Rubus australis and Araujia sericofera are all 
referred to in previous chapters. 



CLIMBERS UNDER GLASS 87 



Asystasia scandens is a stove evergreen which likes 
loam, peat and sand, 1 and is propagated by cuttings in 
April. The Billardieras are ornamental evergreen 
plants, thriving in loam and peat, and propagated by 
cuttings or seeds. Cryptostegias are pretty stove 
climbers propagated by cuttings in bottom heat and 
thriving in loam, peat and sand. The" shrubby Randia 
macrantha has long-tubed yellow flowers and is a good 
stove plant, preferring fibrous loam and peat, with some 
sand. 

These brief notes upon the various climbers for grow- 
ing under glass — exclusive of the annuals, which see 
in the chapter devoted to these — may be concluded with 
a mention of two pretty foliage plants. These are 
respectively the Smilaxes and Piper porphyrophyllum. 
The former are capital twiners for the stove or green- 
house, Australis, discolor, and ornata being among the 
best for the purpose ; the two last having ornamental 
foliage. They like sandy loam, and are increased by 
division. The stove climber Piper porphyrophyllum 
has beautiful bronze-green leaves with pink spots, the 
under-surface being purple. It likes a rich loam and is 
propagated by cuttings of half-ripe growths. For a 
number of other climbers and shrubs suitable for cold 
or slightly heated houses reference should be made 
to those in other classes marked with an asterisk. 



CHAPTER X 



THE ROSE AS A CLIMBER 

Its Beauty and Uses — The Species and Old Roses — The Modern 
Roses — Single Roses — Soil — Pests — Pruning — Under Glass. 

The Queen of Flowers, as we admiringly and affec- 
tionately term the Rose, is one of the finest of all plants 
used as climbers, and it is pleasant to see how much its 
cultivation in this free and natural form is extending 
everywhere. We all recognise how much of the beauty 
of our woods and hedges in June is due to the wild 
Roses which grow among them, and we still more 
appreciate the many Roses which the garden yields with 
such charming forms and so much beauty of habit and 
growth. We see how these climbing Roses can change 
the aspect of even the stiffest and ugliest wall, and how 
much the beauty of a noble building or a stately terrace 
is heightened by the judicious use of the best of our 
Roses of climbing habit. Even a lowly cottage with an 
old climbing Rose rambling over its porch or up the 
roof is ennobled by the flower. 

So, also, we can all realise how much of the loveliness 
of the garden in summer is yielded by the Roses which 
span the paths on arches, shade its arbours, or screen 
the bare and hard wall with fresh foliage and gracious 
flowers, exhaling the fragrance which is one of the chief 
charms of this favourite of the past and the present. On 
the pergola, also, it is seen to advantage ; and the 
verandah is made more attractive by its sweet flowers, 
so pleasing alike to the senses of vision and smell. 

In recent years a new use has been found for the 

83 



THE ROSE AS A CLIMBER 89 



Rose, and one, too, which displays to great advantage 
the beauty and grace of the stronger growing forms. 
This is as a climber for covering old or valueless trees, 
which so many of the species and old-fashioned garden 
Roses will do with the most delightful effect, adding a 
loveliness indescribable to some gnarled tree, and cover- 
ing it with a cloud of fragrant and exquisite flowers. 
On these trees such Roses as the old Ayrshires and 
Boursaults may be trained, if it is justifiable to call that 
training which practically consists in giving them 
freedom to develop and to ramble on and over the 
branches in their own way. 

Another use of the Rose as a climber is not so much 
adopted as might well be. This is to establish it in 
some semi-wild spot by planting it freely among the 
copses and rough places which are to be found on so 
many estates. Many a beautiful glen, valley, or copse 
might be made more charming still were the best of 
these climbing Roses planted freely and plentifully so 
as to roam here and there ; rambling over trees, trailing 
up or down banks, or over some great rock. For this 
some of the species are admirable, but among the old 
garden forms there is no lack of choice, and one can 
hardly go wrong among them, though the original 
species appear to be more in unison with these surround- 
ings. Polyantha, Brunoni and such free species are 
glorious things when left to grow almost untrammelled 
in such a place. These Rose species would well repay 
the search of some who would seek them out and use 
them in the wilder parts of their grounds, for apart from 
the flowers, there are charms of colouring in the 
autumn tints of the leaves of many, as well as interesting 
and beautiful hues in the stems or the prickles which 
serve as the support of the Roses. Fine, also, are the 
fruits, whose bright colouring often shows on the 
bushes until far into the winter time. 



9 o THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



These remarks in favour of the old-fashioned Roses 
and the species, as untouched by the hybridiser or the 
seedling raiser, must not be held as expressing deprecia- 
tion of the graces of the modern flowers of climbing 
growth. It is to these, indeed, that we largely owe the 
present popularity of the Rose as a climber, for the 
popular Crimson Rambler with its glowing flowers has 
done more to further the growth of climbing Roses 
than can well be estimated. We cannot have too many 
of such free-flowering Roses, and the numerous newer 
introductions of the same character have met with a 
demand which shows how entirely they meet the tastes 
of the time. 

Then, where less rampant growth is required, to- 
gether with larger flow T ers, the climbing Hybrid 
perpetuals and Teas may well have a fitting place in the 
garden ; while no one can afford to despise or neglect 
the Hybrid Teas, a class of the highest worth for the 
lover of Roses. 

The single Roses, also, are much appreciated for 
pillars, such as Carmine Pillar or Paul's Single White 
being of great beauty, though as a rule the best of 
these single-flowered species have blooms which have 
but short-lived loveliness. For covering low walls or 
trellises, or trailing over a small shrub, the pretty Rosa 
Luciae or wichuraiana, with the hybrids raised from it, 
ought to be cultivated. The small flowers are plenti- 
fully produced, and the species itself has beautiful 
glossy foliage, not shown of equal beauty, however, by all 
its progeny. It would take too much space to detail the 
Roses, but a selection of climbing species and varieties 
appears in the tables at the end of the work, and many 
more may be found in the catalogues of the leading 
Rose growers, whose lists are well worth studying by 
all intending purchasers. 

The cultivation of the Rose as a climber in the open 



THE ROSE AS A CLIMBER 91 



does not call for lengthened remarks additional to those 
employed in Chapter II. The general directions there 
given apply to the Rose as well as to other climbers, yet 
it may be desirable to emphasise a few points. 

The soil ought to be well prepared and thoroughly 
manured, it being remembered that the Rose is a plant 
which prefers a rather heavy and rich soil. This pre- 
pared soil ought to extend a considerable distance from 
the roots as at first planted, for the Rose is a great 
feeder, and climbing Roses which have to extend their 
stems and branches over a large space, ought to be even 
better provided for than the dwarf forms. One has too 
often seen stunted, unhealthy, climbing Roses which had 
had their roots jammed into small holes made by the side 
of a gravel path, yet were expected to cover a high wall 
with healthy foliage and pretty flowers. It is almost 
superfluous to say that disappointment resulted. 

While cleanliness and the destruction of insect pests 
are important for all climbers, few suffer more or lose 
their beauty so much from their attacks as the Rose, 
aphides being among its worst enemies, especially on 
walls. The barer the walls the more liable are the 
Roses to such attacks, and every effort should be made 
to secure vigorous growth ; also they should be freely 
syringed, and approved insecticides applied at once. 
Mildew and other fungoid diseases are also trouble- 
some, some varieties being more subject to them than 
others, but a cold, draughty position encourages their 
appearance. Moths, saw-flies and gall-flies with their 
larvae are also troublesome. 

The pruning of climbing Roses differs considerably 
from that of the dwarf varieties cultivated for their large 
blooms, and the aim ought to be to secure as much 
flower as possible, together with a free and luxuriant 
growth. In most climbing Roses old and weak shoots 
and growths ought to be cut out, leaving those which 



92 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



are to produce the next year's bloom almost at their full 
length. A brief summary of the practice of the leading 
growers in pruning the various classes is as follows : — 

Hybrid, Perpetual, Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses should 
be allowed to retain vigorous shoots to nearly their full 
length, removing all weak wood. The Noisettes should 
have the old, worn-out wood and the weak shoots re- 
moved, Bourbons requiring practically the same treat- 
ment. The climbing Polyanthas ought to have the 
crowded shoots thinned out after flowering, taking out 
at the same time all exhausted wood. Evergreen Roses 
of the Sempervirens section may have the weak wood 
taken out and the best of the shoots left, only taking 
off the weak and unripened tips of these. The strong 
growing Ayrshire Roses require a similar pruning, this 
method also suiting the Musk Roses. The Wichuriana 
Roses only require a slight thinning out and shortening 
of the longer branches. The Boursaults should have the 
tips shortened in spring, and the weak growths taken 
out with the worn-out wood after flowering. 

The Climbing Rose under Glass 

It is unnecessary to say much about the Rose under 
glass, as all are aware of its beauty and the value of the 
flowers it produces. Marechal Niel is, of course, a 
general favourite, and is more grown than any other 
in this fashion, but almost any of the Tea or Hybrid 
Tea Roses are of high value for cultivating under glass. 
They do best planted out, but may also be cultivated in 
pots, where they require liberal treatment. The attacks 
of mildew, aphides and red spider are those most to be 
feared in the case of Roses under glass, and the first is 
one of the worst enemies, being frequently caused by 
the free ventilation necessary for other plants beneath. 
The ventilation ought, however, to be given so that cold 



THE ROSE AS A CLIMBER 



currents of air do not impinge on the Roses, especially 
at the early season of the year. Dusting with flowers 
of sulphur the affected plants should be adopted im- 
mediately on the discovery of its presence, which is 
shown by the curling of the young foliage. Syringing 
is the best thing for red spider, and this should be done 
twice a week or a little oftener in winter, and daily in 
summer. Should aphides attack the plants fumigating 
must be resorted to. 



CHAPTER XI 



THE CLEMATIS AS A CLIMBER 

Its Beauty — The Species — Prolonged Period of Bloom — Disease — 
Shading Stems — Preparation of Soil — Training and Pruning — 
Propagation — Under Glass. 

The Clematis forms such an admirable ornament to our 
gardens, and is so popular among all who have a love 
for climbing plants, that a greater space may be devoted 
to the flower and its requirements than is generally given 
to other genera in this work. It is so varied in its char- 
acter that it adapts itself readily to many decorative 
effects, and in almost all its forms is so beautiful that 
few gardens seem as if they were incapable of improve- 
ment when this flower is absent from its walls and its 
trees. It gives us clouds of small flowers and masses 
of foliage to trail up a tree or a wall ; it gives us masses 
of bright flowers of great beauty on less vigorous 
growth, or it yields us large and perfect single or 
double flowers of the highest beauty. The Clematis 
may be used alike on the wall, the trellis, the arch, the 
pergola, or clambering up a tree. 

While it must be said that much of the popularity of 
the Clematis and its free use are due to the many ex- 
quisite hybrids which have been introduced from time 
to time, there are many beautiful species of which little 
is known by the great number of growers of these 
flowers, which would well repay the cultivator and 
which are destined to give us through the skill of the 
hybridiser flowers of a character yet undreamt of. If 

94 



THE CLEMATIS AS A CLIMBER 95 



we consider the period over which the Clematis in its 
various forms supplies its flowers we are no less im- 
pressed by its value. Summer brings with its early days 
the pure white blooms of C. montana. The Lanuginosa, 
Patens, Jackmanni, and other hybrids keep up the suc- 
cession, while later, crispa and some others give their 
blooms in the open, and indivisa yields its exquisite 
white flowers under glass. All of these are beautiful, 
and even our native C. Flammula and C. Vitalba are of 
value where free growth is desired. Then the small- 
flowered Viticella has become the parent of several 
beautiful single and double flowers, which, by the way, 
are less subject to the Clematis disease than other 
sections of the race. Though smaller than those of the 
universally cultivated C. Jackmanni, these make up by 
their profusion of flowers what they are lacking in size. 
Then by hybridising the lovely C. coccinea many beautiful 
new plants are making their appearance which are sure 
to be prized for their pretty flowers. 

It is to be regretted, however, that the Clematis has 
a powerful obstacle to its introduction into many gardens 
in the disease to which it is subject and which has already 
been incidentally referred to in speaking of C. Viticella. 
No exact and infallible cure has been found for this 
disease and, despite all efforts, it has been found im- 
possible to retain the Clematis in many gardens because 
of its attacks. It is to be hoped, however, that a remedy 
may be discovered, and we may trust, at least, that the 
raising of new hybrids will give us flowers of equal 
beauty with a better disease-resisting constitution. One 
learns that in gardens where neither the large-flowered 
nor the Jackmanni Clematises will thrive the non-climb- 
ing C. davidiana grows perfectly well. 

It has, however, as mentioned elsewhere, been dis- 
covered that the losses of some Clematises are due to 
the action of the sun on the lower portions of the stems, 



96 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



and that they are healthier when these parts are shaded 
by other plants. This is a valuable discovery, and those 
who have hitherto failed with these lovely flowers will 
do well to adopt some method of shading the lower 
stems. This is not to be taken as advising a shady 
position for the Clematis, for it is usually a sun-lover, 
but only as regards the portions of the stems near the 
ground or for two or three feet above. 

Like most climbing plants, the Clematis demands and 
repays the most generous treatment in the way of pre- 
paration of the soil, and it is to be feared that this is 
not always afforded, with the result that poor, weak, 
flowerless growths are made and disappointment results. 
The soil ought to be deeply trenched, and plenty of 
rotten manure added, with a proportion of lime, and 
a good dressing of basic slag. It is a plant which 
naturally likes a calcareous soil, and, even when estab- 
lished, thrives all the better if it is afforded an annual 
top-dressing of rotted manure and some lime, with a 
little leaf soil or some good loam. The general direc- 
tions as to planting climbers will apply otherwise. 

The Clematis well repays by greater beauty some 
attention in the shape of proper training and pruning. 
It is frequently neglected in the way of training until 
the young shoots are so intermingled and entwined that 
it is injured when an attempt is eventually made to dis- 
entangle the growths. The large-flowered forms, in 
particular, ought to be carefully tied with raffia or some 
other soft material to keep them in the direction desired. 
Pruning, also, is worthy of more care than it receives 
at the hand of the amateur. Those Clematises which 
flower on the old wood require very little attention, 
except in the way of cutting out all weak and strag- 
gling shoots, and shortening the others to a small extent 
only. The patens, florida, lanuginosa, and montana 
sections practically all require this treatment, which 



THE CLEMATIS AS A CLIMBER 97 



may be performed in February or March. On the 
other hand, those of the types of C. Viticella and C. 
Jackmanni, which bloom on the young growths, may 
be cut back to within a few inches of the ground in 
November. 

The greatest favourites among the Clematises are, 
perhaps, the large-flowered hybrids, though for freedom 
of blooming they are surpassed by those with smaller 
flowers, such as Jackmanni. All of these are very 
beautiful and much prized either in the open or in pots 
under glass. A selection of good varieties is given in 
this work, though that is not to be regarded as im- 
plying inferiority on the part of the varieties not named. 
The Viticella type also deserve a little more notice than 
they have received in Britain, and the French raisers 
have added some valuable forms, among them being 
one with bunches of double purple flowers which at 
a distance look like bunches of grapes. It is super- 
fluous to say much about the Jackmanni section, whose 
original, C. purpurea, or Jackmanni, has a fine com- 
panion in Smith's Snow-white Jackmanni. Then, the 
hybrids of coccinea are very beautiful, and are still 
being improved ; while from the union of various other 
species some new forms are being produced. C. 
indivisa, as best represented by its fine form, lobata, 
is a charming thing with its profusion of sweet-scented 
flowers under glass, for it requires a greenhouse, where 
it may be cultivated in pots or in a border. For 
clambering up a tree or covering a large space, our 
native Flammula or Vitalba may be employed, while 
good winter or spring flowerers for sheltered places will 
be found in calycina, crispa, or cirrhosa. A pretty 
species with yellowish flowers is orientalis or graveolens, 
which is easily raised from seeds. C. alpina, or Atragene 
alpina, is a pretty species of moderate growth. 

The Clematis is most frequently propagated by 

G 



98 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 

grafting the varieties on the roots of free-growing 
species, such as Flammula, in heat as early in the year 
as possible. The roots are lifted from the open ground, 
cut into pieces, split open, and the scions (of the 
young shoots) inserted and tied in position with matting 
or raffia. Place these in small pots, and plunge in a 
warm, moist propagating frame until the scion and 
roots unite, when they may be hardened off. Layering 
is the simplest method for the amateur who may only 
require a plant or two. Layers take about a year to 
root in the open ground ; they can then be separated 
from the parent plant. Cuttings of the young shoots, 
with one or two eyes, can be struck in heat in small 
pots of light soil in a propagating frame. Seeds are 
a suitable means of propagation for some of the species, 
but the varieties of others are not to be relied upon 
to be equal to the parents. Such species as Flammula, 
Vitalba, or orientalis grow readily from seeds and the 
last will bloom in the first or second year. Sow in 
sandy soil in spring in moderate heat, giving air when 
the seedlings are up, and pricking out into single pots 
when large enough. 

The Clematis under Glass 

There are few prettier climbers for growing under 
glass than the large-flowered hybrid Clematises, both 
the single and double flowered varieties being admirably 
suited for the rafters or walls, while the whole of 
these large-flowered varieties are highly ornamental 
if grown on trellises, either in pots or planted out. 
The soil suitable for the outdoor plants will answer 
well, and no special care beyond careful training and 
the destruction of green fly and other pests will be 
required. A temperature not much higher than 40 
to 50 degrees is very answerable for these Clematises. 




WILD CLEMATIS (c. VITALBa) 
{Photo by Henry Irving) 



L.ofC. 



THE CLEMATIS AS A CLIMBER 101 



Undoubtedly the most valuable of the tender Clematises 
for cultivation under glass are the lovely C. indivisa 
and its variety lobata. They require the same treat- 
ment, which comprises a winter temperature with about 
40 degrees at night, which should not be exceeded. 
They are best planted out in a thoroughly drained 
border of loam, peat, and sand, rather rough and with 
some small lumps left in. Propagation is effected by 
grafting or by cuttings as in the case of the others. 
Red spider and scale are among their most trouble- 
some enemies. 



CHAPTER XII 



SELECTIONS OF CLIMBING PLANTS AND WALL SHRUBS 

Annual Climbers — Hardy Deciduous and Herbaceous Climbers — Hardy 
Evergreen Climbers — Hardy Wall Shrubs — Climbers for Growing 
under Glass — Roses — Clematises. 

Annual Climbing Plants 

(With some Perennials which may be flowered the same 
year as sown.) 

Hardy. 

Amphicarpea monoica, violet and white. 

Convolvulus major, in variety (syn. Ipomaea purpurea). 

Echinocystis lobata, white, fruit spiny. 

Ipomoea purpurea, in variety. 

Lathyrus odoratus, Sweet Pea, in variety. 

sativus azureus, blue. 

tingitanus, red-purple. 

Maurandya barclayana, violet-purple, etc 
Tropaeolum lobbianum, in variety. 

majus, Nasturtium, in variety. 

— peregrinum, Canary Creeper, yellow. 

Half-hardy. 

Adlumia cirrhosa, pink, biennial. 
Cobaea scandens, violet. 

macrostemma, yellowish. 

Cucumis acutangulus, curious fruit. 
Dudaim, melon-like fruit. 



It 2 



SELECTIONS OF CLIMBING PLANTS 103 



Cucumis erinaceus, Hedgehog Cucumber, spiny fruit. 

myriocarpus, Gooseberry Gourd, small fruit. 

Cucurbita melanosperma, Malabar Gourd, variegated 
fruit. 

Pepo, various small fruits. 

Cyclanthera pedata, green, yellow, small spiny fruit. 
Dolichos Lablab, violet (syn. Lablab vulgaris). 
Ecremocarpus scaber, orange (syn. Calampelis scabra). 

roseus, rose. 

Grammatocarpus volubilis, yellow. 
Humulus japonicus, Japan Hop, foliage. 
fol. var., foliage blotched white. 

Ipomoea grandiflora alba, Moonflower, white, ) va J* e ^ ties 

. Hesperus, white, J Bona-Nox. 

hederacea, in variety. 

- — — Huberi, variegated leaves. 

imperialis, large flowers. 



purpurea, in variety (Convolvulus major). 

Quamoclit, Cypress Vine, in variety. 

versicolor, red (syn. Mina lobata). 

Maurandya scandens, rosy-purple. 
Mina lobata (see Ipomoea versicolor). 
Momordica, in variety, fruiting Gourds. 
Passiflora gracilis, white, fruit red. 

lutea, yellow. 

Thunbergia alata, various. 

Trichosanthes anguina, white, long fruit {syn. T. 
Colubrina). 

Tender. 

Citrullus vulgaris, Water Melon, St., yellow. 
Ipomoea Bona-Nox {see Half-hardy Annuals). 

Quamoclit, Cypress Vine, grh., in variety {syn. 

Quamoclit vulgaris). 
Porana racemosa, grh., white. 



io 4 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Thunbergia alata, in variety. 
Trichosanthes palmata, St., white. 

Hardy Deciduous and Herbaceous Climbers 

Actinidia Kolomikta, white, summer. 
volubilis, white, June. 

* Akebia quinata, purple-Drown, March. 
Ampelopsis (see also Vitis), aconitifolia, quinquefolia 

(hederacea), serjanisfolia, tricuspidata (A. Veitchii 

or Vitis inconstans). 
Amphilophium paniculatum, rose, St., June. 
Apios tuberosa, brown-purple, scented, August. 
Aristolochia Sipho, yellow and brown, foliage, July. 
Atragene (see Clematis). 
Berchemia volubilis, green and white, June. 
Calystegia dahurica, pink and purple, July. 

pubescens, fl. pi., double pink or white, June. 

Celastrus scandens, yellow, May. 
Clematis (see separate list). 

Convolvulus althseoides, rosy purple (low twiner), June. 

■ Scammonia, cream, July. 

tenuissimus, pink (low twiner), July. 

Cynananchum acutum, white or pink (twiner), summer. 

Decumaria barbara, white, July. 

Hablitzia tamnoides, green, autumn. 

Humulus Lupulus, Hop, yellowish green, July. 

* Hydrangea petiolaris, white, April. 
Ipomcea pandurata, white, purple throat, June. 
Jasminum nudiflorum, Winter Jasmine, yellow, winter. 
— officinale, white, July. 

fruticans, yellow, July. 

Lathyrus grandiflorus, rose, July. 

■ latifolius, rose, summer, many varieties such as 

alba, white, delicata, pink, splendens, deep rose, etc. 
* nervosus, blue-purple, July. 



SELECTIONS OF CLIMBING PLANTS 105 



Lathyrus rotundifolius, rose, July. 

Lonicera (Honeysuckle), Caprifolium, yellow, scented, 
Way, etc. 

etrusca, yellow and purple, scented, May. 

flava, light yellow, June. 

flexuosa (see japonica). 

hirsuta, yellow, June. 

* japonica, red and white, July. 

* flexuosa, yellow (syn. L. brachypoda). 

* aureo-reticulata, golden-netted leaves. 

Periclymenum, Common H., red and purple- 
yellow, scented, summer. 

Lycium barbarum, purple and yellow, June. 

vulgare, pale violet or pink, June. 

Menispermum canadense, yellowish, June. 

Megarrhiza californica, curious fruit, summer. 

Muehlenbeckia complexa, green, foliage. 

Mutisia decurrens, orange, summer. 

Periploca graeca, green and brown, July. 

Polygonum baldschuanicum, white, summer. 

Rhus Toxicodendron, Japanese Form, foliage (syn. 
Ampelopsis Hoggii). 

Roses (see separate list). 

*Rubus australis, pink or white, needs a wall. 

biflorus, white, fruit yellow, May. 

fruticosus (Blackberry, Bramble), albus plenus, 

double white, July. 

roseus plenus, double rose, July. 

laciniatus, Parsley-leaved Bramble, white or rose, 

August. 

phoenicolasius, Japanese Wineberry, pale pink, 

fruit scarlet, June. 

* rosaefolius coronarius, double white, August. 

* spectabilis, red, fruit red, May. 

Schizophragma hydrangeoides, climbing Hydrangea, 

white or pinkish. 



io6 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Tropaeolum speciosum, Flame Nasturtium, scarlet, July. 
Vitis (Vine) aestivalis, fruit black. 

californica, fruit black, leaves small, scarlet in 

autumn. 

candicans, Mustang Grape, handsome leaves. 

capreolata, fruit small, black. 

■ — — Coignetiae, leaves handsome, fine colour in autumn. 

cordifolia, fruit blue or black. 

flexuosa major, fine colours in autumn. 

pterophylla, fruit violet, inedible, quick grower. 

heterophylla humulifolia, Turquoise-berried Vine, 

pretty leaves, fruit china-blue. 
inconstans, well known as Ampelopsis Veitchii or 

tricuspidata. 

labrusca, American Plum Grape, fruit purple or 

yellowish. 

lanata, fruit purple, leaves scarlet in autumn. 

• Thunbergii, fruit small, black, leaves very large 

and fine. 

vinifera, Common Grape Vine, fruit various. 

lanceolata, leaves in five segments. 

vulpina, Bullace, fruit purplish. 

Wistaria brachybotrys, violet purple, April. 

chinensis, purple, May, etc. 

— ■ alba, white. 

fiore pleno, double flowers. 

— macrobotrys, white, tinted purple. 

multijuga, purple. 

frutescens, bluish purple, or white, July. 

japonica, white, July. 

Hardy Evergreen Climbers 

[Note, — Those marked with an asterisk require some protection in cold 
districts, and some are practically deciduous in these places.] 

* Araujia grandiflora, white, scented, summer (syn. 
Schubertia). 



SELECTIONS OF CLIMBING PLANTS 107 



*Araujia sericofera, white, August. 

* Berberidopsis corallina, red, summer. 

* Bignonia capreolata, orange, June. 

* Billardiera longiflora, greenish-yellow, berries blue, 

July. 

Clematis (see separate list). 

* Clianthus puniceus, Parrot's Claw, red, May. 

magnificus, brighter, May. 

*Cocculus carolinus, greenish, June. 

* Eccremocarpus longiflorus, yellow and green, July, 
scaber, orange, July. 



roseus, red, July. 

Ercilla (Bridgesia) spicata or volubilis, purplish, summer. 
Hedera Helix, Ivy, in great variety. 

* Holboellia latifolia, purple or greenish, March. 

* Jasminum revolutum, yellow, summer. 

* Lardizabala biternata, purple, December. 

* Mitraria coccinea, red, July. 
*Passiflora caerulea, blue, August. 
Constance Elliott, white, August. 

* Smilax aspera, ) f jj a e 

rotundifolia, j ° ia S e * 

Stauntonia hexaphylla, white, April. 

*Tecoma australis, yellowish white and purple, June. 

* capensis, orange-red, August. 

* radicans, orange, July. 

Hardy Shrubs for Walls 

[Note. — Those marked with an asterisk may require covering in winter 
in cold districts.] 

Abelia rupestris, low wall, pinkish, September. 

* triflora, low wall, white, September. . 

Aristotelia Macqui, green, black berries, May. 

Asimina triloba, purple and yellow, May. 

Azara microphylla, greenish, berries orange, spring. 



io'8 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



*Azara Gilliesii, yellow, May. 
Benthamia fragifera {see Cornus Capitata). 
Berberis nepalensis, lemon yellow, summer. 
several others. 

* Buddleia globosa, orange, May. 

* lindleyana, purplish red, September. 

* Cardiandra alternifolia, white and lilac. 

* Carpenteria californica, white, June. 

Caryopteris Mastacanthus, low wall, lavender, autumn. 

albus, white, autumn. 

Ceanothus americanus, white, July. 

azureus, blue, July. 

varieties and hybrids. 

* dentatus, blue, July. 

Chimonanthus fragrans, whitish, or yellow and purple, 
December. 

grandiflorus, larger. 

Choisya ternata, white, summer. 

* Cistus, many species, summer. 
Clerodendron foetidum, lilac-rose, August. 

* trichotomum, red, September. 

Colletia cruciata, foliage and spines. 

* Cornus capitata, green and yellow, fruit scarlet, August. 
Kousa, yellow and white, August. 

* Corokia Cotoneaster, yellow, summer. 
Corylopsis spicata, pale yellow, February. 
Cotoneaster microphylla, white, April. 
Cydonia japonica, many varieties. 

• Maulei, red. 

Cytisus, in variety, spring and summer, albus, white, 
praecox, cream, Scoparius andreanus, brown and 
yellow. 

Desfontainea spinosa, scarlet and yellow, August. 

* Drimys Winteri, white, May. 

Elaeagnus argentea, yellow, silvery foliage, July. 
— — - glabra, whitish, pretty leaves, August. 



SELECTIONS OF CLIMBING PLANTS i 



Elaeagnus macrophylla, greenish-yellow, pretty foliag 

multiflora or longipes, fruit, orange. 

pungens, yellowish, ornamental leaves, 

variegated forms of glabra and pungens. 

* Embothrium coccineum, scarlet and orange, May. 
Enkianthus japonicus, white, February. 

* Escallonia floribunda, white, July. 

* macrantha, crimson-red, June. 

philippiana, white, July. 

* punctata, red, June. 

* rubra, red, July. 

* Eucryphia pinnatifolia,' white, August. 
Euonymus japonicus, foliage, many varieties. 

* Fabiana imbricata, white, May. 
Forsythia intermedia, yellow, March. 

suspensa, yellow, March. 

viridissima, yellow, March. 

Fremontia californica, yellow, April. 

* Fuchsia, several species and varieties. 
Garrya elliptica, pretty catkins, October 
Gordonia Lasianthus, white, September. 
Indigofera gerardiana, pink, July. 
Kerria japonica fl. pi., yellow, summer. 
Lespedeza bicolor, rosy-purple, October. 

* Lippia citriodora (Aloysia), white or lilac, August. 
Magnolia glauca, white, May, etc. 

major, large flowers. 

grandiflora, white, summer. 

obovata, purple and white, April. 

Yulan or conspicua, white, March, etc 

soulangeana, white, tinted purple 

Menispermum canadense, yellowish, summer 

* Myrtus communis, white, June. 
* LTgrii, pink, July. 

* Olearia stellulata, white, dwarf, June. 
■ Haasti, white, autumn. 



no THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Osmanthus aquifolium, white, autumn. 

* Ozothamnus rosmarinifolius, white, July. 
Philadelphus coronarius, white, May. 

— gordonianus, white, July. 

grandiflorus, white, June. 

several other species and varieties. 

* Phillyrea augustifolia, white, May. 
latifolia, white, May. 

* Photinia japonica, white, autumn. 
Pittosporum Tobira, white, August. 
Plagianthus betulinus, white, summer. 
Prunus, several species. 

* Punica granatum, Pomegranate, red, August. 

* Raphiolepis japonica, white, June. 
Ribes speciosum, red, summer. 
other flowering species. 

Rosmarinus officinalis, low wall, whitish and purplish, 

February, etc. 
variegatus, variegated leaves. 

* Solanum crispum, blue, June. 

* augustifolium, blue, June. 

* jasminoides, white, June. 

* Stuartia pentagyna, cream. 

virginica, white. 

Styrax japonicum, white, spring. 

Viburnum, almost any of the taller Viburnums, such as 

Opulus and its varieties, dilatatum, etc. 
Vinca major, blue, spring. 

* Vitex Agnus-Castus, lilac, August. 
Xanthoceras sorbifolia, white and red, summer. 

Climbers for Growing under Glass 

[Note. — h.h. = half-hardy ; grh. = greenhouse ; int. = intermediate house ; 
st. = stove]. 

Abutilon Darwini, orange, grh., or St., April, etc. 
tesselatum majus, leaves mottled yellow. 



SELECTIONS OF CLIMBING PLANTS in 



Abutilon Fleur d'or, light orange and red, grh., April, 
etc. 

Megapotamicum, red and yellow, grh., autumn. 

pulchellum, white, grh., July. 

Princess Marie, rosy lake, grh., April, etc. 

Boule de Neige, white, grh., April, etc. 

Canary Bird, yellow, grh., April, etc. 

venosum, orange, veined red, grh., July. 

Acacia riceana, yellow, grh., May. 

armata, yellow, grh., April. 

Adelobotrys Lindeni, white and purple, st. 
Adenocalymna comosum; yellow, St., September. 
Adhatoda cydoniaefolia, white and purple, St., October. 
Aganosma caryophyllata, yellow, scented, St., October. 

Roxburghii, white scented, St., October. 

Allamanda Aubletii, yellow, St., June. 

cathartica, yellow, St., June. 

Chelsoni, yellow, St., June. 

grandiflora, yellow, St., June. 

nobilis, yellow, St., July. 

Schottii, yellow, St., September. 

Alstroemeria densiflora, red and black, grh., summer. 
Antigonon amabile, rose, st. 

leptopus, crimson, St., August. 

Araujia sericifera, white, summer. 
Argyreia speciosa, rose, st. July. 
Aristolochia brasiliensis, purple, St., July. 
caudata, red, St., June. 

Duchartrei, brown and yellow, St., January. 

floribunda, purple, red and yellow, St., July. 

gigas, purple, St., June. 

goldieana, greenish and yellow, st., July. 

odoratissima, purple, St., July. 

Asparagus decumbens, white, foliage, grh. 

medeoloides, white, foliage, grh. 

plumosus, white, foliage, grh. 



ii2 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Asparagus retrofractus, white, foliage, grh. 

scandens, white, foliage, grh. 

sprengeri, foliage, grh. 

Asystasia scandens, cream, St., July. 

Batatus or Ipomoea bignonioides, purple, grh., or St., 

July- 

Bauhinia corymbosa, pinkish, St., summer. 
Beaumontia grandiflora, white and green, St., July. 
Berberidopsis corallina, crimson, hardy or h.h., summer. 
Bignonia capreolata, red and orange, grh., July. 

Chamberlaynii (now Anemopaegma C), yellow, 

st., summer. 
Cherere, orange, summer. 

Clematis, white, yellow and red, grh., summer. 

magnifica, crimson, St., summer. 

speciosa, yellow, grh., July. 

venusta, crimson, St., autumn. 

Billardiera longiflora, yellow passing to purple, grh., 
summer. 

scandens, cream, passing to purple, grh., summer. 

Bomarea Carderi, rose, spotted purple brown, h.b., or 
grh., autumn. 

oligantha, red and yellow, h.h., or grh., autumn. 

Bougainvillea glabra, pink, St., or int., summer. 

spectabilis, red and scarlet, int., summer. 

superba, rich rose. 

Brachysema latifolium, crimson, grh., spring. 
Canavalia ensiformis, purple, St., July. 
Ceropegia elegans, purple, St., summer. 
Cestrum aurantiacum, yellow, grh., June. 

elegans, carmine, grh., January, etc. 

Chorizema varium Chandleri, yellow and red, grh., 
June. 

Cissus discolor, variegated leaves, st. 

Clematis (see separate list). 

Clerodendron splendens, scarlet, St., summer. 



SELECTIONS OF CLIMBING PLANTS 113 



Clerodendron Thomsons, scarlet, St., summer. 

Balfouri, crimson, St., summer. 

Clianthus puniceus, scarlet, grh., or h.h., summer. 
Clitoria heterophylla, blue, St., July. 

ternata, blue and white, St., July. 

Cobaea scandens, purple, grh., summer. 
Combretum elegans, yellow, St., May. 

purpureum, crimson, St., August. 

Convolvulus pannifolius, blue, grh., summer. 

mauritanicus, blue, grh., or h. hdy., summer. 

Cryptostegia grandiflora, red-purple, St., July. 

Datura or Brugmansia suaveolens, white, grh., August. 

arborea, white, grh., August. 

Dipladenia or Echites atropurpurea, purple, St., summer. 

boliviensis, white and yellow, St., summer. 

eximia, rose-red, St., summer. 

Sanderi, rose, st., summer. 

splendens, carmine rose, St., summer. 

Dolichos Lablab, rose and purple, grh., July. 
Eccremocarpus scaber, scarlet, grh., July (syn. Calam- 

pelis scabra). 
Echites Franciscea sulphurea, yellow, st. 
Ficus stipulata, foliage, grh., or h.h. (syn. Ficus 

repens). 
Fuchsia, in variety. 

Gloriosa superba, orange and red, St., July. 
Gompholobium polymorphum splendens, crimson, grh., 
June. 

Hardenbergia comptoniana, purple, grh., March. 
Hibbertia dentata, dark yellow, grh., summer. 
Hidalgoa Wercklei, scarlet and yellow, autumn. 
Holboellia latifolia, purple or greenish, h.h., March. 
Hovea Celsii, blue, grh., June. 
Hoya carnosa, pinkish-white, grh., July. 

globulosa, creamy-yellow, St., April. 

■ imperialis, red-brown, St., June. 

H 



ii 4 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Ipomoea Bona-Nox, white, July. 

Horsfallise, rose, St., October. 

Learii, blue, St., September. 

Purga, Jalap, purple-rose, St., or grh., August. 

rubro-cserulea, white, red, and blue, St., Sep- 
tember. 

Jasminum Duchesse d'Orleans, white, St., summer. 

grandiflorum, white, grh., summer. 

Sambac fl. pi., white, St., autumn. 

odoratissimum, white, grh., summer. 

Kennedya prostrata Marryattae, scarlet, grh., April. 

rubicunda, dark red, grh., June. 

Lantana Camara, violet, st. or grh., June, 

Lapageria rosea, rosy-crimson, grh., or h.h., summer. 

■ ■ alba, white, grh., or h.h., summer. 

superba, crimson, grh., or h.h., summer. 

Littonia modesta, orange, St., April. 

superba, red, St., April. 

Lonicera sempervirens, red and yellow, grh. or hdy., 
spring. 

Luculia gratissima, pinkish-white, int., autumn, etc. 
Mandevilla suaveolens, white, h.h. or grh., June. 
Manettia bicolor or lutea-rubra, scarlet and yellow, 
int., March. 

Maurandya barclayana, various, grh., h.h., summer. 
Mikania scandens, yellowish white, h.h. or grh., August. 
Millettia megasperma, purple, grh., August. 
Mimosa marginata, purplish, grh. or st., summer. 
Myrsiphyllum asparagoides (see Asparagus medeoloides ), 

July. 

Oxypetalum cseruleum, blue, int. or st., summer. 
Passiflora alata, red, pink and white, st., June. 
amabilis, red, st., May. 

Buonopartea, red, blue and white, st., June. 

cserulea, grh. or hdy., August. 

Constance Elliott, white. 



SELECTIONS OF CLIMBING PLANTS 115 



Passiflora Campbelli, purple. 

edulis, white, tinged purple, fruit edible, St., July. 

quadrangularis, white, red and violet, fruit edible, 

St., August. 

racemosa, red, St., June (syn. princeps). 

Paullinia thalictrifolia, foliage, St. 

Pergularia odoratissima, greenish yellow, St., June. 

Petrea volubilis, purple, St., July. 

Physostelma Wallichii, yellow and green, St., May. 

Piper porphyrophyllum, foliage, st. (syn. Cissus). 

Plerotna or Tibouchina semidecandrum or macranthum, 

violet-purple, grh., July. 
Plumbago capensis, blue, grh. or st., autumn. 

scandens, white, st., July. 

Quisqualis indica, orange or red, St., June. 

Randia macrantha, pale yellow, st. 

Rhodochiton volubile, red, grh., June. 

Rubus australis, pink or white, h.h., summer. 

Ruscus androgynus, foliage. 

Semele androgyna, foliage, grh. 

Senecio macroglossus, pale yellow, grh., winter. 

Smilax salicifolia variegata, leaves variegated, st., 

summer. 

ornata, leaves silvery, grh. 

Solandra grandiflora, pale yellow, St., May. 
Solanum jasminoides, white, grh. or hdy., August. 

seaforthianum, lilac, St., autumn. 

Wendlandii, lilac-blue, summer. 

{see also Hardy Climbers). 

Sollya heterophylla, blue, grh., July. 
Stephanotis floribunda, white, St., May. 
Swainsonia coronillifolia, red, grh., July. 
albiflora, white. 

Tacsonia exoniensis, rose and violet, grh., summer. 

insignis, crimson, violet, etc., int., summer. 

manicata, scarlet, st. or int., July. 



n6 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Tacsonia mollissima, pink, grh., September. 

Van Volxemii, scarlet, st. or int., summer. 

Tecoma filicifolia, foliage, st. 

grandiflora, orange-red, grh., July (syn. Bignonia 

grandiflora). 

jasminoides, pink, grh., summer. 

Testudinaria elephantipes, greenish-yellow, grh., July. 
Thunbergia alata, yellow, st. or grh., summer. 

coccinea, red, st. or grh., summer. 

fragrans, white, st. or grh., scented, summer. 

grandiflora, blue, st. or grh., summer. 

laurifolia, blue, st. or grh., summer. 

Trachelospermum or Rhynchospermum jasminoides, 

white, grh., July. 
Tropaeolum azureum, blue and white, grh., October. 
■ Jarrattii, orange-red, yellow and brown, grh., 

summer. 

lobbianum, various, grh., summer. 

tricolorum, orange-scarlet and black, h.h., summer. 

tuberosum, yellow and red, h.h., autumn. 

* Vitis gongyloides, interesting. 

Selection of Climbing Roses 

[Note. — A. = Ayrshire, Boursault or other free and rapid growers. B. 
= Bourbon. H. P.=Hybrid Perpetual. H. T. = Hybrid Tea. 
N. Noisette. P. = Polyantha. T. =Tea.] 



Acidalie, white, A. 
Aglaia, yellow, P. 
Aimee Vibert, white, N. 
Alister Stella Gray, yellow, 
N. 

Amadis, crimson, A. 
Ards Rover, crimson, H. P. 
Bardou Job, crimson, semi- 
double, H. T. 



Belie de Baltimore, flesh, A. 
Belle Lyonnaise, canary, T. 
Bennett's Seedling, white, A. 
Blairii No. 2, blush pink. 
Bouquet d'Or, yellow, T. 
Brunoni, white, single. 

flore pleno, double. 

Celine Forestier, yellow, N. 
Charles Lawson, rose, B. 



SELECTIONS OF CLIMBING PLANTS 117 



Cheshunt Hybrid, cherry 

carmine, H. T. 
Claire Jacquier, yellow, P. 
Climbing Capt. Christy, 

flesh-white, H. T. 
Climbing Charles Lefebre, 

velvet crimson, H. P. 
Climbing Cramoise Supe- 

rieure, crimson (China). 
Climbing Devoniensis, 

creamy white, T. 
Climbing Kaiserin Augusta 

Victoria, primrose, H. T. 
Climbing La France, pinkish 

rose, H. T. 
Climbing Niphetos, white, 

T. 

Climbing Perle des Jardins, 

pale yellow, T. 
Climbing Victor Verdier, 

cherry rose, H. P. 
Coupe d'Hebe, pink. 
Crimson Rambler, crimson, 

P. 

Dundee Rambler, white, 

pink edge, A. 
Euphrosine, red, P. 
Felicite Perpetue, white, A. 
Fortune's Yellow, yellow, 

flaked carmine. 
Gloire de Dijon, buff and 

orange, T. 
Gloire des Rosomanes, 

crimson. 
Helene, violet, single, P. 
La Guirlande, white, A. 



Lamarque, lemon, N. 
Leuchtstern,rose, whiteeye, 
P. 

L'Ideale, yellow and red, N. 

Longworth Rambler, light 
crimson, A. 

Madame Alfred Carriere, 
white, P. 

Madame Berard, salmon and 
yellow, T. 

Madame Isaac Pereire, car- 
mine, B. 

Madame Moreau, copper- 
yellow. 

Madame Pierre Cochet, 
golden-yellow, T. 

Manda's Triumph, white 
(Wichuraiana). 

Marechal Niel, yellow, N. 

Mrs Paul, white, shaded 
peach, B. 

Ophirie, apricot, N. 

Pink Roamer, pink (Wich- 
uraiana). 

Prairie Belle, white, A. 

Princess Marie, rose, A. 

Polyantha grandiflora, 
white, P. 

Psyche, pink and yellow, 
P. 

Reine Marie Henriette, 

cherry red, H. T. 
Reine Olga de Wurtem- 

burg, red. 
Reve d'Or, yellow, T. 
Ruga, pale flesh, A. 



it8 THE BOOK OF CLIMBING PLANTS 



Schneelecht, 
(Rugosa). 



white I William Allen Richardson, 
orange yellow, N. 



South Orange Perfection, | Waltham Climber No. I, 



white, tipped pink 
(Wichuraiana). 
Souvenir de Joseph Metral, 

red, H. T. 
Thalia, white, P. 



red, H. T. 
Waltham Climber No. 3, 

red, H. T. 
wichuraiana, white. 
White Pet, white, P. 



Selection of Climbing Clematises 
Cocclnea and Hybrids. 



coccinea, scarlet, July, 



Duchess of Albany, pink. 



Countess of Onslow, purple Sir Trevor Laurence, 



crimson. 



scarlet. 

Duchess of York, blush j Ville de Lyon, carmine, 
pink. 



florida, white, April, etc. 
Barillet Deschamps, mauve, 

double. 
Beauty of Woking, silver 

grey, double. 



Florida Group. 

Duchess of Edinburgh, 

white, double. 
John Gould Veitch, 
lavender, double. 



Jackmanni 
violet purple 



Jachnanni Group. 

or purpurea, Mrs Baron Veillard, lilac- 
rose. 



Jackmanni superba, darker. Princess of Wales, puce. 
Mad. E. Andre, bright red. Smith's Snow-white, white. 



Lanuginosa Group 

Beauty of Worcester, violet, j lanuginosa, blue. 
Enchantress, white, double. 
Fairy Queen, flesh, barred 

white. 
Henryi, creamy white. 



Louis Van Houtte, purple. 
Venus Victrix, lavender, 
double. 



SELECTIONS OF CLIMBING PLANTS 119 



Patens Group. 

Fair Rosamund, blush. ! Miss Bateman, white. 
Lady Londesborough, silver- Miss Crawshay, pink. 



grey. 

Lord Londesborou gh, 
mauve. 



Mrs G. Jackman, white. 



Viticella Group. 



Hendersoni, purple. 
Lady Bovill, grey blue. 
Viticellagrandiflora, purple. 
alba, white. 



Viticella purpurea plena 
elegans, purple, double. 

rubra grandiflora, red 

purple. 



Selection of other Species 
{syn. Atragene 



alpina 

Alpina), blue, summer 
calycina, pale yellow, 

February, 
crispa, lilac, September. 
Flammula, white, July, etc. 



indivisa, white, spring, grh. 

lobata, white, grh. 

montana, white, May. 

grandiflora, larger. 

orientalis or graveolens, 
yellow, August. 



INDEX 



Abelia, 50, 51, 107. 
Abutilon, 66, 67, 110, 111. 
Acacia, 79, 1 1 1 . 
Actinidia, 34. 35, 104. 
Adelobotrys, 77, 1 1 1 . 
Adenocalymna, 71, 111 
Adhatoda, 83, in. 
Adlumia, 26. 102. 
Aganosma, 72. in. 
Akebia, 72, 104. 
Allamanda. 6", 1 1 1 . 
Aloysia, 58. 
Alstrcemeria, 72, in. 
Ampelopsis, 28, 29. 30, 44, 104. 
Amphicarpasa, 24, 102. 
Amphilophium, 72, 104. 
Anemopsegma. see Bignonia. 
Antigonon, 73. 111. 
Apios, 31. 104. 

Araujia, 43. 86, ic6, 107, 111. 
Argyreia, 83. 84, in; 
Aristoiochia, 32, 72, 104. 
Aristotelia. 32, 6c. ic~. ic8, in. 
Asimina, 51, 107. 
Asparagus, 73, 80, 83. in, 112. 
Asystasia, 87, 112. 
Atragene, see Clematis. 
Azara. 51, 107. 

Barberry, see Berberis. 
Batatus, 69, 112. 
Bauhinia. 77. 112. 
Beaumontia, 75, 112. 
Begonia. 75. 
Benthamia, see Cornus. 
Berberidopsis. 41. 86, 1C7, 112. 
Berberis, 51, 108. 
Berchemia, 34, 104. 
Bignonia, 42, 67, 63, 10-, 112. 



Billardiera, 44. 87, 107, 112. 
Birthwort, see Aristoiochia. 
Blackberry or Bramble, see a< 

Rubus. 4. 31, 32. 
Bomarea, 72, 112. 
Bougainvillea, 68. 112. 
Brachysema, -6, 1 12. 
Bramble, see also Rubus, 31, 32. 
Bridgesia, 42, 107. 
Brooms, see Cytisus. 
Brugmansia, 78, 1 13. 
Buddleia, 51, 52, ic8. 

Calampelis, set Eccremocarpus. 

Calystegia, 34, 104. 

Canary Creeper, see Tropceolum. 

Canavalia, 73, 1 12. 

Cardiandra, 52, 108. 

Carpenteria, 52, 108. 

Caryopteris, 52, ic8. 

Ceanothus, 47. 48, 108. 
1 CelastriiSj 35, 104. 
' Ceropegia. 80, 1 12. 

Cestrum, 75, 76, 112. 

Chaste Tree, see Vitex. 

Chimonanthus, 52, 53, 108. 

Choisya, 53, 108. 

Chorizema. 84, 1 1 2. 

Cissus, 79, 112. 

Cistus, 53, 54, ic8. 

Citrullus, 26,. 103. 

Clematis, 2, 3, 11. 15, 94-101. 

Selections of, 11 8, 119. 

Clerodendron. 54. 68, 69, io8 3 11 
113. 

i Clianthus, 41. 42, 78, 107, 113. 

Clitoria, -7, 78, 113. 

Cobsa, 25, 78, 86, 102, 113. 
! Cocculus, 43, 107. 

121 



122 



INDEX 



Colletia, 50, 108. 
Combretum, 84. 113. 
Convolvulus, 4, 23. 34, 70, 102, 

104, 113. 
Cornus, 54, 108. 
Corokia, 49, 108. 
Corylopsis, 54. 108. 
Cotoneaster, 55, 108. 
Cryptostegia, 87, 113. 
Cucumis, 25. 35, 102. 103. 
Cucurbita, 25, 35, 103. 
Currants, Flowering, see Ribes. 
Cyclanthera, 25, 103. 
Cydonia, 60, 108. 
Cynananchum, 34, 104. 
Cypress Vine, see also Ipomasa, 26. 
Cytisus, 50, 108. 

Datura, 78, 113. 
Decumaria, 35, 104. 
Desfontainea, 61. 
Desmodium, 57. 
Dipladenia, 78, 113. 
Dolichos, 26, 74, 103, 113. 
Drimys, 51, 108. 

ECCREMOCARPUS, 38, 44, IO3. IO7, 
113. 

Echinocystis, 24, 35, 102. 
Echites, 79, 80, 113. 
Elseagnus, 50, 108, 109. 
Elephant's-foot, see Testudinaria. 
Embothrium, 55, 109. 
Enkianthus, 61, 62, 109. 
Ercilla, 42, 107. 
Escallonia, 48. 49, 109. 
Eucryphia, 55, 56, 109. 
Eugenia. 58. 
Eurybia, see Olearia. 
Euonymus. 56, 109. 

Fabiana, 50, 109. 
Ficus, 84, 85, 113. 
Forsythia, 48, 109. 
Fremontia, 56, 57, 109. 
Fuchsia, 56, 84, 109, 113. 

Garrya, 57, 109. 



Gloriosa, 73, 113. 
Golden Bell, see Forsythia. 
Gompholobium, 85, 113. 
Gordonia, 57, 109. 
Gourds, 25. 

Grammatocarpus, 26, 103. 
Grevillea, 79. 

Hablitzta, 35, 104. 
Hardenbergia, 80, 113. 
Hawthorn, Indian, see Raphio- 

lepis. 
Hedera, 39, 40, 107. 
Hibbertia, 78, 113. 
Hidalgoa, 74, 113. 
Holboellia, 43, 86, 107, 113. 
Honeysuckle, see also Lonicera, 1, 

3 1 - 

Hop, w a/w Humulus, 26, 35. 
Hovea, 85, 113. 
Hoya, 76, 113. 
Humulus, 26, 35, 104. 
Hydrangea, 33, 104. 

Indigofera. 57, 109. 

Ipomsa, 23, 24, 25, 26, 35, 69. 

102, 103, 104, 112, 114. 
Ivy, see also Hedera, 1, 3, 4, 11, 

32, 38, 39, 40. 

Jasmine, see also Jasminum, 38, 41. 
Jasminum, 32, 41, 85, 104, 107, 
114. 

Ken ned ya. 76, 114. 
Kerria, 49, 109. 

Lablab, see Dolichos. 
Lantana, 85, 1 14. 
Lapageria, 69, 114. 
Lardizabala, 43, 107. 
Lasiandra, see Pleroma. 
Lathyrus, 23, 33, 34, 102, 104, 
105. 

Lespedeza, 57, 109. 
Lippia, 58, 109. 
Littonia, 83, 1 14, 
Lonicera, 31, 105, 1 14-. 



INDEX 



123 



Lophospermum, 85, 86. 
Luculia, 86. 114. 
Lycium, 33, 105. 

Magnolia, 49, 109. 
Man de villa. 80, 114. 
Manettia, 86, 114. 
Maurandya, 24, 85,. 86, IC2. 103, 
114. 

Medeola. 8c, 83. 
Megarrhiza, 35. 105. 
Melon, Water, see Citrullus. 
Menispermum, 35, 36, 105, 1C9. 
Mikania, 114. 
Milletia, 74, 114. 
Mimosa, 79, 114. 
Mina, 25, 103. 
Mitraria, 44, 107. 
Momordica, 25, 103. 
Monk's Pepper, see Vitex. 
Moustache Bush, see Caryopteris. 
Muehlenbeckia, 33. 105. 
Mutisia, 36, 105. 
Myrsiphyllum, 80, 83, 114 
Myrtle, see Myrtus. 
Myrtus, 58, 109. 

Nasturtium, see also Tropoeolum. 
3, 36, 102. 

Olearia, 58, 109. 
Oleaster, 40. 

Orange Ball, see Buddleia. 
Orange, Alock, see Philadelphia. 
Osmanthus. 11c. 
Oxypetalum, 74, 114. 
OzothamnuSj 59, no. 

Parrot's Beak, see Clianthus. 
Passiflora, 25, 41, 70, 103, 107, 

im- 
passion Flower, see Passiflora and 

Tacsonia. 
Paullinia, 115. 

Pea, Everlasting, see Lathyrus. 
Pea, Sweet, see Lathyrus. 
Pelargonium, 84. 
Pergularia, 8c, 115. 



Periploca, 33, 105. 

Petrea, 74, 115. 

Philadelphus, 58, no. 

Phillyrea, 62, no. 

Photinia, 62, 110. 

Physianthus, see also Araujia, 43. 

Physostelma, -6, 115. 

Piper, 87, 115. 

Pittosporum, no. 

Plagianthus. 59. 11c. 

Pleroma, 77, 115. 

Plumbago, 76, 115. 

Polygonum, 33, 105. 

Pomegranate, see Punica. 

Porana, 27, 103. 

Prunus, 59, no. 

Punica, 60, no. 

Pyrus, 60. 

OuAMOCLIT, see also Ipomsa, 26. 
Quince, Japanese, see Cydonia or 

Pyrus. 
Ouisqualis. 84, 1 15. 

Randia, 87, 115. 
Raphiolepis, 60, no. 
Rhodochiton, 8c, 115. 
Rhus, 29. 

Rhynchospermum, see Trachelo- 

spermum. 
Ribes, 6c, 1 10. 
Rose, 1, 2, 4, ii, 88-93. 

Selections of, 116, 11-. 118. 

Rose, Rock, see Cistus. 
Rosmarinus, 60, no. 
Rosemary, 60. 
Rubus, 31, 32, 86. 105, 115. 
Ruscus, 115. 

SCHIZOPHRAGMA, 33, IC5. 

Schubertia, see Araujia, 43. 
Semele, 79, 115. 
Senecio, 76, 77, 115. 
Smilax, 42, 87, 107, 115. 
Solandra, 77, 115. 
Solanum, 60, 61, 77, 11c, 115. 
Sollya, 86, 115. 
Staff-tree, see Celastrus. 



124 



INDEX 



Stauntonia, 43, 107. 
Stephanotis, 71, 115. 
Strawberry Tree, see Cornus. 
Stuartia, 60. no. 
Styrax, no. 

Syringa, see Philadelphia, 58. 

Swainsonia, 83. 115. 

Sweet Pea. see also Lathyrus, 23. 

Tacsonia, 70. 71. 115, 116. 
Tea. New Jersey, see Ceanothus. 
Tea Tree, see Lycium. 
Tecoma, 43, 71, 107, 116. 
Testudinaria. 83. 116. 
Thunbergia, 25, 71, 103, 104, 116. 
Tibouchina, see Pleroma. 
Trachelospermum, 86. 116. 
Traveller's Joy (Clematis), 1. 
Trichosanthes, 25, 103, 104. 
Tropaeolum, 3. 22, 23. 36. 3-. 83. 
102, ic6, 116. 



Verbena, Sweet, set Lippia. 
Verbena triphylla. 58. 
Viburnum, 60. no. 
Vinca, 60. 11c. 
Vine, see also Vitis, 3, 4, 28. 
Vine, Glory, see Clianthus. 
Vine, Silk, 33. 

Virginian Creeper, set Ampelopsis. 
Vitex, 60, no. 

Vitis, 28. 29. 30, 44. 79. 106, 
116. 

Wax Flower, see Hoy a. 
Wineberry, Japanese, 32. 
Winter Sweet, set Chimonanthus. 
Wistaria, 30, 31, 106. 

Xanthoceras, no. 

ZlCHYA. "6. 



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